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one word....duraspark.<br>you can go to the u-pull-it and get a set up CHEAP.

<br>You will get a TINY bit of movement normally. But, if you can rock the big ends back and forth or up and down, there is a problem. If you are pulling the pan anyway, I would pull the caps off one at a time and check out the bearings. If you pull a cap, and the two bearing halves are...

have you checked the metering rods? Maybe one of them is sticking, or a spring broke.

<br>And the mounts just "slip off", right? ::)

krusher makes a good point. You could manipulate all the rods and easily see if it is a problem with a rod/journal.

With a little backpressure created by a muffler such as a FM you should actually pick up some torque as opposed to a glasspack. And, you will actually get better flow with a FM due to less turbulence than a glasspack.

If you want to check for a rod bearing try this:<br>*pull the plugs out.<br>*get a wooden dowel rod about 18"long(1/4" will work)<br>*rotate engine till a cylinder is 1/2 way up/down bore<br>*put dowel rod in that plug hole and push down on piston slightly(don't break rod)<br>*now with a wrench...

If one broke, do you think that others are not far behind? I ordered a set of bolts for my 2" body-lift from JD. They were grade 5.

I agree with orange69. That tranny has weak syncros, and the shifter is prone to sticking between gears when they wear out. There are mush better oprions that would in the long run be cheaper. BTW, it is a rice burner part.

I can't answer your question, but I have seen you post on this site many times, and I would like to offer an invitation to join the site and participate in the Bronco brotherhood(or sisterhood....ladies). All questions and opinions/answers allow all of us to keep the Bronco alive.

If you want an H pipe to actually be effective, here's how to do it. Take a crayon(white is usually easiest to see) and draw a line from the point where the tubes come into the collector back down the exhaust pipes about 3 feet(the longer the better, that way you only have to do this once)...

Go broke maintaining it, or go broke fixin it. Whats the difference? My wife still gets torqued up, and I'm still broke. ;D

As the wise Yoda would say......Patience you will need.....yeeesssss. Just a couple of bits of experience. #1 Take before measurements from points that won't move when you start cutting stuff apart. #2 Drill all spot welds, and use a chisel to seperate those that you cant drill. Don't...

Thats awesome that you are starting to see light at the end of the tunnel. It just makes the love affair that much more intense. Oh yeah, how'd ya like the Haynes manual? ;D

dexronIII will just make the trans shift a little softer. It is actually a more stable fluid.

ca1a73:<br>If you are running an efi motor, have you changed or adjusted the timing? If so, did you short across a timing connector? I'm not too familiar with the EEC family of controls, but almost all computer control requires that you take the computer out of the timing loop by means of some...

it requires far more current to arc across an air fuel mixture under compression load than it does under compression no load. I assume that the ignition is a capacitive discharge type. When the circuitry starts to break down in the box, you can get a back feed from the control side of the coil...

at least people get to see a real truck. I run into people all the time who have no idea what I am driving.

pretty neat, but lets get real, thats a trailer queen part.

it's too easy to pull power for the deck from the battery to risk burning something up by running through the fuse box. On more modern stuff, the ignition switch just turns on the deck, but a seperate source powers it. Heck, your truck isn't wired for speakers anyway, what's one or two more wires?