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Gladly...how? I'm not technology challenged, I'm just happily living in 1995.;D

I entered my 1968 bronco in its first car show today. It won 1st place in the 4x4 category. It felt pretty good. I bought the truck just over a year ago. It required new sheet metal for the entire front end and the rear fenders. That unexpected expense totally shot my build budget. I ended...

I had to cut both of mine out. Actually, when I finished cutting, all that remained was the core support and firewall. Did not brace anything, but took lots of measurements. I wished I would have braced a little anyway. It took a fair amount of jacking and wedging to get it lined back up so...

There is an upholstery shop in Brunswick that does a lot of work on our restorations. He is not Bronco specific, but very good. If you think it's not too far for you, I'll get his name and number from my dad this weekend.

I had to replace both my front posts when I rebuilt my truck. One side I ordered a rebuild kit and on the other I had to order new hinges. The new hinges were the way to go. For the rebuild, you will have to drill the holes out to the new size. It is best to use a drill press for this job...

I've got a '68 full cab with a 289 and 3 on the tree. It just left the shop. New sheetmetal, new paint, new brakes, new brake lines, new shocks, "new" rear diff, new hubs, and bearings. Basically, the entire under side was pulled and either replaced or refurbished. It needs the following...

I tried welding that seam from the outside and was not pleased with the results. I'm going to end up seam sealing both inside and out after I get the driver's quarter replaced.

I commited early on to replace steel with steel. I've had a few trouble spots, especially when it came to welding the rear quarters upside down(I was upside down welding over my head). I finally gave up and had my brother come over and weld it in for me. I got the driver's side rear quarter...

The relay you are hearing SHOULD be for your fuel pump priming. It is usually a 2-3 second event and it will "kick" off until you go into start or turn the key off and back to acc. Even after I bypassed the inertia switch, I had mine connected to an incorrect power source and it would pressure...

Coming from under the truck, the lower quarter is the first thing you will find. I knocked my pass side out last week and cleaned up the spot welds. I started welding the lower quarter back on and had to enlist the help of my brother. He welds for a living. I did find out from my local paint...

Wiring harness, computer, fuel pump, headers with O2 sensors, impact switch ( I know it has another name, but I can't think of it right now). That's a good start. I'm trying to remember what all I took for my swap, but it's been a few years. If I remember something else, I'll amend. DC

DR, I started removing my lowers today. I was bodywork challenged a few months ago when I started this project. Since, I have learned how to weld sheetmetal, hang doors, paint, pray, apply body filler, pray, dial JBG & Duffs. Did I mention, pray? So far, so good. I'll admit it was a...

Sort of as an after thought, you may also want to check your vacuum lines. I swapped a 5.0 into my 94 ranger without changing the vacuum lines and it was dreadfully slow off the line. Ran through a series of code pulling, plugs, checking connections(starting to sound familiar), nothing...

Isn't it as simple as looking at the air intake? An SD EFI will not have a sensor in line with the air, but rather a throttle position sensor. The MAF will have a big MAF sensor in the air intake usually about 12 inches upstream on the throttle body. You can also revisit the website you...

I just finished the priming of my front clip today. Used the 3-M seam sealer and it was still "soft". I do NOT intend to scrape it out. I used it between layers of etch primer and high build primer.

JB, Nothing fancy at this time. No thoughts for the near future either. I really want to get it all back together and find it actually works again. DC

Thanks, I start welding in the driver's side inner fender and kick panel tomorrow (finished the passenger's side last week) and will need the dash out pretty quick so I can finish the welding and prime all those new panels. I know now is the time to rewire the whole thing, but it's not in the...

I need to remove the dash on my '68 to complete the welding of the kick panels and door post. How do I remove the throttle and choke cables from the dash? I did not see set screws on the knobs. Are they threaded onto the shaft? Which knobs are supposed to have set screws and which, if any...

After a week of waiting on parts, I got the hinge bolts replaced and hung the door. There is still a little "play" when the door opens, but I am chaulking that up to no rocker panel in place yet. I believe, once I weld that in place it will solidify the kick panels and remove the flex at the...

PM sent. re: front pass fender and T-shifter cover.