4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

[nvrstuk]

Here's some pics of turning down the outer case of the ARB so the load bolt can run against the back of the ring gear...

Setting up backlash

Rear K2500 disc brake brackets on the D60 spindles...

 

[nvrstuk]

Couple of other ARB case pics

 

[nvrstuk]

Front end is complete and rolling towards its new, hopefully very permanent home!!

Had a little caliper to re-enforcing plate clearancing to do on the knuckle...

 

[nvrstuk]

Dana 60 weigh-in!!!

I will add up all my separate subtotals and see how close it gets to these two scales splitting the weight between them

Appr 125#'s & 240#'s

 

[nvrstuk]

Hydroboost is all plumbed and I'm planning out brake lines and routing and I talked to two different guys in the tech department at Summit as I was ordering stainless steel Teflon lines and they both said don't run flex hose for your entire system because you will get and you will feel the sponginess. They emphasized if you ran hydroboost for sure do not run stainless lines for the entire system!!

I was asking about running flex line from the MC to my Line locks, which I've been running since the mid 90s on each axle and he said no. Run the minimum of flex line..

So," do over "...

Going to spend a fortune just adapting the AN flex hose to inverted flare hardlines

 

[Apogee]

...Going to spend a fortune just adapting the AN flex hose to inverted flare hardlines

What fittings do you need and how many?

 

[nvrstuk]

Laying it out late this afternoon after I check off item #77 and go back to brakes. I'm thinking I will need 6 (just for the front) male _3 AN to male 3/16" inverted flare.

I need a flex hose at each end of the track bar and of course to the strg knuckle.

For the rear, I will need one between the frame and the heim on the upper 4 link and one at each end of the rear axle housing so I can rotate my calipers if needed for bleeding.

 

[nvrstuk]

I also talked to MP Master Power Brakes in NC and I barely finished my brake line design and he said "don't do it" . Adamant about it too. Said to make sure I used PTFE braided lines ( which I do) and use as little flex line as possible...

 

[Apogee]

I would probably just run some short 6" or so hoses where you jump from frame to link or link to axle. Anchor the 5/8" barrel fittings to the links and you're good to go. When you say you need -03 AN to 3/16" male inverted flare, I assume you're referring to the 3/8-24 male tube nut on the hard line, so the fitting should be a -03 AN X 3/8-24 female inverted flare (FIF), correct?

Regardless of male versus female, I'm only coming up with about $75-$100 in fittings, give or take depending on what you do at the MC. I would put a -03 X 3/8-24 inverted flare tee fitting on each axle (2 total), -03 X 3/8-24 FIF fittings on each end of the track bar, rear upper link and out at each of the calipers (8 total), plus whatever banjo fittings you need for the calipers you're running (4 total).

Hoses, considering you'll need (2) of one length for the front calipers, (2) for the rear calipers and (4) for the link mounts assuming you tee the circuits at the axle, will certainly add up, but you should be able to do all of the brake plumbing for less than $350 I would think.

 

[nvrstuk]

Those are spot on numbers with what I came up with sitting in line at the dump for 40 minutes...I was first in line to watch the loader move crap around for all that time and did some "phone shopping"!

Yes on the flare size

 

[nvrstuk]

Got the tranny cooler squeezed back in with new mounts between the frame rails, new modified cross member and radiator... paint will be dry in the am so I can hook it up and I can check that off the list!


Air is cooling off... I'm opening shop doors during the day to try to get the temp UP to 65-70 now! Should have started that a week ago!

 

[nvrstuk]

No pics today... ran lines from the m/c to the line locks and rear bias valve...from there to the track bar and back to the upper rear 4 link tube... not much to show... oh, the guy at the parts store sent about 8 3/16" hard lines out to my shop and half of them were metric!! Freakin' NAPA store help to boot! lol

waiting on a few short braided lines so I can take it out to the calipers

Spent too much time routing battery cables...still not done

 

[nvrstuk]

Hitting it hard-like so many others...Haven't posted up many pics the past couple weeks...but I picked up some sheet aluminum for heat shields and I will mount those directly under the new seat pans. Spaced 1/2" from the new seat floors. I will run sheet aluminum all the way up to the body mounts under the floor pans up front and also up the firewall to the height of the heads.

Even tho I need to pull them tomorrow to weld the spacers on and pop rivet the shields on, I couldn't wait to place the seats on the lowered floors to check out the vision out the windshield... I used a floor jack and a 6x6 to give the floor some support while I climbed in... seat height is perfect! Been 10 months, longest Broncoless spell by 7 months I think...

I first fitted the floor pans in April I think...been a long time since I've been at this point in the build...before I decided to put the D60 in...

Obviously this is just a mock up as I have all the parts cut and fitted but in the pics every thing is just "sitting there".

 

[nvrstuk]

Worked on rerouting the 1/0 battery cables. They both run on the engine side of the top lip of the fender thru the firewall where the heater vent is, into the cab, down along the A hoop leg and into 2" sq tube that is attached to my rock ski. Absolutely protected and less chance of any pinching in case of a crushed fender or worse...Battery will be mounted behind the "B" pillar against the fender inside a nonconductive box with a quick disconnect in line.
The quality of Waytek's products is bar none! Here I'm showing how much shrinkage a quality heat shrink tube will shrink up compared to the local parts store stuff. Have used their stuff for decades now. I'm sure a Bronco guy pointed me in the right direction there!

That done, I attached my aluminum heat shields to my new floor pans. Below I've only attached them in two spots to see how it all fits when installed...

Hope to finish both of those today and keep checking stuff off the list...

 

[nvrstuk]

Couple more floor clamping and bracing pics...sky hook --roll cage...comes in handy.

 

[Apogee]

Just a thought, but have you considered cross-breaking, bead rolling or dimpling the aluminum panels to increase the rigidity and minimize noise. Maybe you already planned on putting some sound mat or undercoating of some sort on them.

 

[nvrstuk]

No I hadn't thought of that. I have 1/2" sq tubing on 8" centers running parallel to the frame thinking that would be plenty. Hmmmm...

My concern was thick ice ripping it off when snow bashing...

 

[nvrstuk]

Pass side is 1/2 way welded in. Got the tubing for the battery cable routing finished...

 

[nvrstuk]

Seat panels are almost welded in completely...worked on installing an inner rear wheel well... can't tell ya how excited I am to be getting this close to starting it up... waiting for a header to be powder coated with the 02 bung welded in. Then I can mount my hydr ram and weld on the tie rod end for it... put some fluids in and charge the hydroboost system, finish running brake lines and bleed them out... keep on working on the list...

 

[nvrstuk]

Filling a couple more HUGE holes...