4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

[Apogee]

Cross brace is done... really dislike welding over the top of the engine... not as bad as welding within 3" of my fuse box when I was modifying the swing pedal assbly for the hydroboost! Lot's of important wires there!! : )

Trial fit the RCV front axles is next...

Can you pull the engine with the cross-brace welded in like that?

 

[nvrstuk]

So who would have guessed by installing the "stiffener" inside the modified front cross member that the frame rails would have moved this much!! HA!

The rails each have a pc of 5/16" plate gusseted to the outside rail since it had SO many drilled holes, bumpstops going thru the frame, etc that the extra 9#'s of weight would be worth it...

So I didn't have my upper over the engine brace between the struts connected and check this out!!!! The welding between the frame rails affected my strut mounts... so glad I already had my cross brace made!!

I've done this enough that I should have had the cross member bolted up but these have been long days and I didn't even think of it!! oh well.... it's not bad but

 

[Yeller]

At least it will be easy to remove. I usually have to use a port-a-power to get them in and out

 

[nvrstuk]

Yes on the engine in/out... I might have to pull the pass side header but otherwise it will clear...

I checked with the headers on-- it can be removed.

 

[nvrstuk]

Seemed like a do-nothing day as I laid out brake line routes, reviewed D60 small parts needs, ordered a couple of small ARB parts for the bulkhead, etc...not like the last two days of welding all day and having something to show for it! : )

I'll pull the rear housing tonight, trim one of the inner stiffener ribs for ARB line clearance, fit the oil scraper in the housing for the TruHi9 and clean, clean, clean...

Install the inner oil seals, and whatever else I can get done...

 

[nvrstuk]

So in my John Deere rich Valley...( lots of tractor parts can't even get AN/JIC fittings here ) does anybody have 4 - 1/2 x 2 3/4" fine thread studs that are stock on '78-9 early king pin model Dana 60 Ford knuckles? Also need the spindle washer that fits between the first walking nut in the outer bearing in the hub.

Sure appreciate it...

 

[nvrstuk]

Dorman site is down for maintenance and my local parts places are not finding any.

Studs are fine threaded on each end 2 3/4 inches long with approximally 1 3/16 inch threads on each end

 

[nvrstuk]

So here's a question for those in the know. I found out tonight that my buddy who had this housing before I did shortened the one side by taking the axle tube out of the center section they broke a housing before they realized they had to turn the outer diameter to press it back in.

Here's my question-- do you think I need to weld the housing to the diff section to keep it from leaking and possibly spinning?? It took more than a few tons to press it in??

 

[nvrstuk]

Here's some more Paul !!!

 

[nvrstuk]

Lost all my pictures again!!

Here you go Paul...some more weights

 

[nvrstuk]

Here's a couple pics of where the passenger side housing fits into the differential center.

As close as I can get the untouched OD of the housing is 3.133" and the part that's necked down looks like it's 3.065".

To get the center section to be centered btw the pan and the motor mount/frame, I lengthened it out at the knuckle on the pass side and shortened the driver side. This axle has not been used since about '83...

4 o'clock update...I burned it in..no spinning...

 

[Yeller]

If the plug welds are in question yes weld it and if your worried about leaks weld the plugs as well, it will be much easier now than after its leaking.

 

[nvrstuk]

Thx Steve, my buddy said he was worried that it might leak because they had to press it on.... easy fix...I'll plug the leak before it/if it ever happens... they did the axle mod's in '86 I think.

He built a HP rear steer axle fully loaded also... be great for something w/o a lot of HP...I was thinking about it but after asking around I determined that it wouldn't be "if" I grenaded it, it was how soon...

 

[Yeller]

and on the spindle washer you are looking for. I needed some as well and had no luck finding them. I took a washer with the tabs for locking the nut in place and removed the tabs, it is still working fine.

 

[nvrstuk]

That's a good fix Steve!
Luckily I found a spindle washer! Just going to run bolts instead of studs for the other kKP cap...hopefully after I install this, I won't have to take it off and on eight more times like I've done doing this build

 

[nvrstuk]

Not complaining about my small hoist on a 40' long I beam, but I didn't feel comfortable swinging it over my rig so I lifted it off the fab table, onto the Bones creeper and wheeled it to the other side...D60 sure looks ugly without some color!

 

[Dbarnes72]

...D60 sure looks ugly without some color!

Looks fine. Clear coat it. Done.

 

[nvrstuk]

Looks fine. Clear coat it. Done.

I was actually...

Now I just want it running... I put color on it and the front end...have all the brackets, links, strut mounts, etc still...much rather fab parts than worry about stuff that will get chipped, dented, and covered with red dirt!

Spent the entire day cleaning up and chasing Ford factory BOOGER welds...gave up after 8 hours or so I said the HECK with that...this isn't a show Bronco...it's a go Bronco so together it goes...made my reservations for Moab next month so...time is a wasting!!

 

[nvrstuk]

Moving my battery...again! Not much room behind the new rear wheel wells since they go with 2" of the tailgate and if it was there it would be very high...thinking of mounting it between the pass seat and the rear wheel well... leaning at an angle flush with front of the wheel well.

 

[nvrstuk]

No pics tonight... should post one of all the dang smoke that we've been living in since mid July... forest fires on the West Coast are much worse than "normal"...

Been working on moving all the wiring, connections for winch, solenoid connections, etc all this just on the pass side. Will re-route my battery cables from inside the frame like they've been for a dozen years to up against my rock skis under the floor inside conduit. My rock skis are 4" top-bottom and stick out from the body the same amount as my Gorilla flares which helps to keep them from ripping off and should protect the cables tucked up against the floor pan and the rock ski too.

Battery's new location will be in front of the new 40" long fender well on the pass side directly behind the B hoop, vertical, and tucked against the side panel, moved from where it's been for years which was between the tailgate and wheel well on pass side.

I will mount it directly off the cage pillar (up high enough to clear the fender by 1/2") and then box it in entirely with a quick release or hinged lid for easy access. But NOT how it's just leaning like it shows in this hurried pic! I want to install a battery selector switch for a quick kill/shut off also. Always liked that idea in case of a cable getting pinched on a roll over or somehow. The inside of the box will be non conductive, lockable, and the battery switch will be outside of the box, easily/quickly accessible.

Pics when I get there...I put the RCV's in the housing (had to take .115" off the long axle), cleaned parts and installed new kingpins, kingpin bushings, etc in tonight. Letting the spindle hubs, brake brkts and anything painted to dry tonight and will put some zinc on the spacer btw the disc bracket and the spindle.

Checked about 8 things off my list this weekend... but did notice I get to pull my ARB apart to turn the outer diameter down on the lathe some so the thrust bolt will ride against the ring gear...thought I was done with that, missed it earlier...did it to my old grenaded ARB a few years back so...