4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 8"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, HP D60 front narrowed, 14bolt rear, new P/S....,

[ntsqd]

At least you don't have to pop-rivet a piece of sheet metal over the hole in the piston so that you possibly make into the pay-out money.......

 

[nvrstuk]

I know of 2 other updated "Beehive" springs in these Z 304 heads that have failed. CRAP, can we buy ANY quality parts anymore????? DANGit...

I think, I hope I have dodged a bullet on potential piston carnage.

Won't know till I tear it down.

Do I get to say it again...? I'm not extremely happy with Ford Performance Products?

I mean, I've gone thru a lot of engines in 50 yrs... I mean, I build new ones & run 'em & sell 'em... one I had to keep for about forever because it was "family time" & any extra nickels went to 4H or whatever... so the 351W I built lasted 200 plus, thousand miles & it got ran hard but parts I really feel were made to last longer then. Not the high tech waaaay cool stuff of today but the parts lasted.

This current thing has 30k or so on it is all & most know it's previous life.

 

[DirtDonk]

That’s becoming a great fear of mine.
When and and if I finally get around to finishing some of my projects, I don’t have the time in life anymore to do them over again!
Can’t just keep redoing things due to defective parts.

 

[nvrstuk]

That’s becoming a great fear of mine.
When and and if I finally get around to finishing some of my projects, I don’t have the time in life anymore to do them over again!
Can’t just keep redoing things due to defective parts.

Yeah, it's real for sure Paul! IAC that failed b4 startup, 3 TPS's, two O2 sensors... & that's just engine mangement... frustrating as heck!

Making me re-think some long term improvements.
I mean you can limp down the highway with a carb w/o a fuel pump, you can tie off the choke flap with dental floss if the linkage breaks to keep running but when that tps or O2 sensor goes out you are DONE! Doesn't matter how hard ya try in the dark while it's raining (thunderstorm) on the side of the trail that's a two track literally 40 miles from pavement...and often 10-15 miles to a cell signal and another 70 miles to a town large enough to have a single bay shop... then when talking to the guy about your ignition & fuel management the dude just slowly nods his head & gives ya the name of a guy to call... BTDT

Update- these failures aren't Amazon parts. Delco-Remy, Holley, Echlin (all I can find as OE isn't available for a couple sensors anymore)

 

[nvrstuk]

This picture shows the confusion/misdirection of airflow from the cyl and what the 02 sensor was dealing with. The primary butterflies show evidence at low flow how unburned fuel/air was moving back and forth.

 

[nvrstuk]

I posted up in the yard critters post also...

So we flew up to Victoria, BC & low & behold they followed us up here!

They are a pest as the city is doing birth control testing on them as they are overrunning the place.

Color in sunset pic was not enhanced.

Parts should arrive Friday so hopefully I can see if my engine is BACK soon after I slap it together.

 

[frdboy]

Cool deal!

Did you just find the one broken VS?

When you get it back together upload whatever tune was working the best before all these issues and make sure you go in and clear the learn table so it's not trying run off that.

I am hoping to hit the dunes Sunday with mine.

 

[nvrstuk]

Just one cyl with zero compression. Whew...

Thx for the advice about deleting the learn table.

Clueless on that but I'm sure I can find a post somewhere on how to do it. Thx

Which dunes are ya hitting?

lol

 

[frdboy]

Just one cyl with zero compression. Whew...

Thx for the advice about deleting the learn table.

Clueless on that but I'm sure I can find a post somewhere on how to do it. Thx

Which dunes are ya hitting?

lol

I'm in Michigan and Silver Lake Sand dunes are only about 40 mins north of me

 

[nvrstuk]

I'm in Michigan and Silver Lake Sand dunes are only about 40 mins north of me

Only being 40miles away would be a hard temptation to resist a couple times/month!

Have fun!

 

[nvrstuk]

Got back from a wonderful few days with my bride in Victoria. Flew in a DeHaviland Otter and enjoyed every minute of flight and time there.

RUNNING as I got it back together today! No comparison for run quality and I haven't got it to operating temp yet. Will know a WHOLE lot more when it gets to 160deg. Seemed to idle MUCH better after I pulled over 100% of fuel for cold water enrichment.

Thanks Adam for clueing me in about deleting the old learn file as I'm sure it would have run like crud w/o doing that.

 

[nvrstuk]

For sale... Holley Terminator X cheeeep... lol


Well, it idled great last night. Took me down the driveway & back so I took it for a spin this am.

It ran great for about 8 miles into town.

After a couple errands in town I put gas in it.

Started up at the gas station & idle immediately went to 2100rpm and now it won't idle below 2,000 rpm. Never had a backfire or even a burp, so you can't rule out gaskets, but..

Throttle is on the stop. Throttle cable has a little bit of slack in it.


Did an extensive vacuum check by pulling all lines & using propane around the intake, throttle body base, etc.

AFR is/was at 13.7- 14.0 even after the high idle so I was thinking
either the computer compensates extremely fast, or it's not a vacuum leak.


I pulled the IAC and it had a little tiny bit of soot, but no carbon or anything that might keep it from hanging up and nobody in town has one that I can slap in. I cleaned it anyway being careful not to allow cleaner into the IAC motor.

After reinstalling the IAC the engine idled at 1600 rpm after startup w/o any throttle input so...
I tapped the gas & it won't idle below 2,000 again.

Can the terminator x thru the IAC cause this... from a run perfect forn30 minutes situation, shut it off & upon restart the idle won't go down?

-Hoses ok
-Throttle linkage has slack
-Throttle linkage is up against stop ( that we set when tuning)
-Shot propane around intake gaskets
- checked torque of intake bolts, all connections ok (it ran great for appr 30min)
-Pulled IAC & it had a little soot, but I cleaned it, and inside the TB is clean where the IAC fits.
-no leaks, noises, etc
-no miss during test drive, pulled strong
- no miss now, but it's hard to tell at idle since idle is 2k r p m and it is not quiet.
-water temp was at 195F


I run a 95-99 Camaro IAC.

Pic is last night, fumes are from headers

 

[frdboy]

Make sure your TPS shows 0% with your throttle closed. If not, you will need to do a TPS Auto set to re-zero it. If it's above 3%, it will not go into idle control.

 

[nvrstuk]

I will check... gotta be somewhere on my laptop! lol

TPS is at 3% according to the handheld.

So...


I reset it and it was at zero when I first started it up. I touched the gas because it was idling at 1800 r p m and it went to 1900 r p m and the t p s went up to 1 percent while idling now at 1900rpm

Sent a direct email..

 

[nvrstuk]

I've spent at least a couple hours every day on this since the IAC failed. Had a very helpful hand from a CB brother with some tunes and settings and I still couldn't get it.
Hauled it 110 miles to the only guy anyone local in our tractor town knows can tune Dominators and Terminators... He's tuned mine b4.

Back to the dyno again... New parts are crap. 3 TPS's, 2 O2 sensors and 3 IAC's in three years. IAC stepper motors aren't always the same so I can't just plug a new one in. After spending 30 hrs trying different settings and the same thing over and over and over again expecting different results (definition of insanity) I took it back to him and he said with my cubes & my cam it's impossible to get the idylic #'s the internet and Holley say I should have. He had it re-dialed in within 2 hrs. It won't cold start yet w/o it dying once (never died this quick before) w/o dying once or twice within 4 seconds of it firing so it must be the engine start ASE circuit. I will play with it and see if I can get it.

It runs great when warm. I had a fouled plug probably from all the dinking around and bad AFR #'s the past 2+ wks.

Adam- I'll send you the tune so you can see what you think.

 

[ba123]

I've spent at least a couple hours every day on this since the IAC failed. Had a very helpful hand from a CB brother with some tunes and settings and I still couldn't get it.
Hauled it 110 miles to the only guy anyone local in our tractor town knows can tune Dominators and Terminators... He's tuned mine b4.

Back to the dyno again... New parts are crap. 3 TPS's, 2 O2 sensors and 3 IAC's in three years. IAC stepper motors aren't always the same so I can't just plug a new one in. After spending 30 hrs trying different settings and the same thing over and over and over again expecting different results (definition of insanity) I took it back to him and he said with my cubes & my cam it's impossible to get the idylic #'s the internet and Holley say I should have. He had it re-dialed in within 2 hrs. It won't cold start yet w/o it dying once (never died this quick before) w/o dying once or twice within 4 seconds of it firing so it must be the engine start ASE circuit. I will play with it and see if I can get it.

It runs great when warm. I had a fouled plug probably from all the dinking around and bad AFR #'s the past 2+ wks.

Adam- I'll send you the tune so you can see what you think.

Yes, IAC motors are garbage and I honestly cannot count how many I purchased before finding the one that would work for me.,

Which type are you set up for and can you post a pic of your setup?

I don't know how much the steppers are different from the pwm ones, but I found that some are ok with reversed flow and others are not. For example, on the stock config for that motor, it might be set up so that it needs vacuum to get it closed and if you install it reversed, it can't close and your idle won't go down and so you aren't getting the position your ecu is commanding.

For the actual valve, I had the best luck with Standard and getting them from Oreilly Auto. My rabbit hole search started after getting a bad stock replacement from Rockauto.

 

[nvrstuk]

So dang hard for dialing in cold start-up when you only have one- cold start after you tow it 110 miles each way to try to get it dialed in.

 

[ba123]

So dang hard for dialing in cold start-up when you only have one- cold start after you tow it 110 miles each way to try to get it dialed in.

Yeah, honestly, there is no way that's going to work out for you. You'd need to leave it with him or figure it out yourself.

It's not that difficult once you understand how. I don't know Term X but most likely you need to set it to Open Loop Warmup,

Disable all ECU adjustments (IAC control, Fuel adjustments, Spark adjustments)
Once you have an IAC that works...you need to make a table and know the values you want for each rpm setting and lock those in for each step of the warmup.
Scale a table for warmup enrichment of fuel
Idle timing should be easy and you should have a cold advance scale.

When you start it up, see which points make the engine seems happy and note which ones don't and try to make it more like the ones that it likes.

Difficult to write but really not that tough to do.

 

[nvrstuk]

Yes, IAC motors are garbage and I honestly cannot count how many I purchased before finding the one that would work for me.,

Which type are you set up for and can you post a pic of your setup?

I don't know how much the steppers are different from the pwm ones, but I found that some are ok with reversed flow and others are not. For example, on the stock config for that motor, it might be set up so that it needs vacuum to get it closed and if you install it reversed, it can't close and your idle won't go dow and so you aren't getting the position your ecu is commanding.

For the actual valve, I had the best luck with Standard and getting them from Oreilly Auto. My rabbit hole search started after getting a bad stock replacement from Rockauto.

O'Reilly's Standard is what I am using now. Thanks for posting up as maybe I'll be good for a while.

'98 Camaro part

Pic would not show much as it is buried unless I zoom in to show just it with the wiring connector so here's a pic of it in an ad.

I'll show a pic of my IAC so you can see it's cylindrical shape.

 

[ba123]

O'Reilly's Standard is what I am using now. Thanks for posting up as maybe I'll be good for a while.

'98 Camaro part

Pic would not show much as it is buried unless I zoom in to show just it with the wiring connector so here's a pic of it in an ad.

I'll show a pic of my IAC so you can see it's cylindrical shape.

And it there any way to know for sure that it's actually going to the commanded setting? For the pwm valves, since they have an inlet and outlet hole, I could see and I could also blow through it from each side and feel the resistance (when connected electronically but not mounted).

Also, have you checked your throttle stop position? Will it run with the IAC disconnected? With the engine warm, disconnect the IAC and see if it runs. It should idle low. If it dies, your throttle stop might need to go in a little and open the throttle. It also could be that IAC is being pulled or likes to stick open. That holding 2100 rpm I got myself with an IAC valve that wasn't right so you could try blocking that port off so you know (but maybe you can't do that with a stepper?). The more I write the more it sounds like an incorrect or faulty IAC. If it doesn't go to where you need it there isn't much you can do to bring the rpms down,

Is there a way to block off the port to test? If it won't idle at all, then maybe somehow to block off with a tiny hole? Otherwise, can you see what the IAC setting it when the idle jumps up high? Is there a way to put that term x in test mode while running and select values for the iac?