Converting Stock Distributor Cap

[ntsqd]

There's no reason to assume they're not part of the scenario either.

If it would fit, and I'm pretty sure it won't on 90%+ EB's, I'd recommend the GM carb'd 1ton 454 and early 6.2L diesel air filter can for carb'd & TBI'd engines. Biggest filter element fitted to a light duty truck that I know of. Roughly 14" X 5" fully enclosed with an air straightener built-in. It won't clear the big Ford cap and it won't clear most any hood.

 

[DaveLev]

Ok let's go back to basics: I have no body lift, no plans for one, and a 14" x 3" aftermarket K&N airfilter on a stock 2 barrel carb and the stock intake manifold.

I know that MSD makes this one:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8352/overview/
but is way overpriced at over $400.
I see that I am being persuaded not to go that route.

I see the pertronix conversion kit like this for under $100:
https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/pro...-ignition-66-74-early-ford-bronco-289-302-new

or the replacement distributor from pertronix under $300 like this:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Pertronix_Billet_Distributor

I am unable to find a factory duraspark and lack the knowledge of how to wire it up. Did anyone do a tech article on this conversion, and can someone provide a build list to see what it would cost?

I would think converting stock at $100 with pertronix would be good as hundreds have done it, but several seem to think they're crap, so I don't know what to do.

Dropping in a MSD looks like some of them need ignition modules (external devices on the fender) to control the spark or something. Not all of them need this though.

I wasn't in the market to spend hundreds, nor did I expect it to be so difficult.

I won't do GM HEI, thanks.

If I need to replace air cleaner, no big deal, but what I have provides me about 1" of space before hitting the distributor currently. I think the MSD ones just drop in and work, as to the petronix.

 

[jckkys]

I've already given you a source for the Duraspark module. Here;http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-OE...ash=item461393041a:g:1IYAAOxyVLNS9IBC&vxp=mtr is a typical 302 Duraspark distributor that most parts stores carry. The Duraspark coil can be found the same way. The only remaining part is the Duraspark wiring harness. This is no place to go cheap, so this;http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Au...ash=item4d310cbf20:g:zFoAAOSwNSxVNlf4&vxp=mtr one from Summit is worth the price. After putting a quality Duraspark system in, all the parts can be simply bought as '77 Bronco replacement parts at Rock Auto or any real parts store. American Autowire should include instructions with the harness.

 

[savage]

I have a 74 that I changed from the black to the blue dura spark box. I ended up making my own harness, and changed my small cap to the large one.my distributor was all ready changed to electronic, here's my thread on it ,http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258904 and http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258757

 

[ntsqd]

Just looked up the Painless harness too. http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30812
Doesn't get any better from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30812 Looks like the American Autowire harness is less.

 

[DaveLev]

So the steps:

- buy a used distributor for $70+ shipping,

- find a duraspark coil for $40 or so, like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1975-19...ash=item5667123026:g:0-QAAOxyBPZTjN47&vxp=mtr

- Buy a wiring harness to adapt for $150 or so

- Buy a cap & rotor from RockAuto, etc, which is probably another $30-100.

So, all in for electronic ignition converstion to DuraSpark I'd be at $290 with no guarantee / warranty, and may need plug wires, too? That is unless I can find all these parts in a junk yard somewhere.

The threads provided are way too complicated and technical for me. I am seeking plug and play. I think I should just eliminate points with the pertronix conversion kit for $100 that reusues the factory cap & rotor & the new coil I bought. At that point I can remove the ballast resister.

Any objections? Pros & cons of that decision?

 

[DaveLev]

I went with a pentronix. I have not installed. I will report back after installed. Any pro-tips for installing these would be appreciated. Looks easy enough...disconnect battery ground for safety, remove distributor secondary wire temporarily, remove cap, rotor, undo screw between coil negative and the points/condenser, remove points & condenser, put in new part(s), rewire it back up, put in rotor, put on cap, reconnect secondary wire, connect battery ground, and fire it up and hope for the best. Sound about right?

 

[Show Links]

Well, I tried to replicate my cut-out problem after making sure all wire and distributor connection were good, but I cannot replicate the stall I experienced. At least I purchased extra ignition module unit and pick up, just in case.

I've not run Pertonix on my Bronco, but have had good success on my 62 Chevy II. If they are anything like mine, there a cinch to set up. I would research this board however. I've read mixed reviews on Pertonix for Bronco application, but have no direct experience. With the exception of my mystery stall (which may have nothing to do with ignition) my Durapspark II has worked flawlessly.

Good luck,

Rob

 

[DirtDonk]

I would research this board however. I've read mixed reviews on Pertonix for Bronco application, but have no direct experience.

Looks easy enough...disconnect battery ground for safety, remove distributor secondary wire temporarily, remove cap, rotor, undo screw between coil negative and the points/condenser, remove points & condenser, put in new part(s), rewire it back up, put in rotor, put on cap, reconnect secondary wire, connect battery ground, and fire it up and hope for the best. Sound about right?

Pretty much. Except for the one detail that is very often overlooked, and may even be (very likely is) at least the main gremlin with Bronco installations. And that one thing is making sure that your Red wire from the distributor is connected to a full 12v circuit on with the key in RUN.
In other words, you CAN'T just connect it to the positive side of the coil on a stock wiring harness. But in the case of a re-wire where there is a ballast resistor, you either wire the Ignitor to the 12v side of the resistor, or use a coil that does not need the resistor in the first place, and simply eliminate it from the mix.

Ignitors will often run on reduced voltage, but they don't like it and won't do it forever and won't always do it reliably right from the get-go. Making sure you have 12v to the Red wire goes a long way towards your happy install.

Paul

 

[DaveLev]

Great tips, thank you. Damn you really are a Guru, Paul.

 

[DirtDonk]

Hah! Thanks. Just partly a "been there, done that" thing, and mostly listening to other's who've "been there done that" too.

Paul

 

[DaveLev]

Here's what I did this morning:

Installed Petronix pointless ignition by removing condenser & points, etc.;
Removed MSD ballast resister and connected the 12v power straight through to the coil;
Fired it up and adjusted timing with vacuum advance blocked off;
Took a test run at 90 MPH or so. No surging, plenty of power, never got over 210 degrees.

I will be rewiring the ignition and probably the entire dash soon, but for now, it seems to be happy.

 

[DaveLev]

It really seems to still be happy. Not sure what root cause was on the studdering, but suspecting the MSD blaster coil didn't play nice with the MSD Ballast Resister at .8 ohms or something. Now that I have Petronix in place for a week or so with no ballast resister and MSD coil, the problem still appears to be gone after 200 miles or so.

 

[gr8scott]

Damn you really are a Guru, Paul.

We don't call him Obi-Donk-Kenobi for nothing! ;D

 

[crutch]

Unfortunately, no pieces left on the shaft, bare metal and no cap of any kind. I haven't called Summit yet, but plan on doing so first thing in the morning. It's either a manufacturing error or a rotor that got mixed up in shipping.

Weird and frustrating.

If I learn anything interesting, I'll pass it a long..

Hi Show Links, did you ever find the correct diameter rotor for this upgrade? I'm having the same problem with some parts that I got from Napa. Very frustrating as well as I already replace plugs and wires for the male cap.

 

[Show Links]

Yes I did. After two incorrect rotors sent from Summit, they sent me the correct one. I'll find the receipt and see if I can get some numbers for your reference in the event you want to purchase from them. I will get it for you tomorrow unless you're in a major hurry.

Just let me know,

Rob

 

[crutch]

Yes I did. After two incorrect rotors sent from Summit, they sent me the correct one. I'll find the receipt and see if I can get some numbers for your reference in the event you want to purchase from them. I will get it for you tomorrow unless you're in a major hurry.

Just let me know,

Rob

Awesome, that would be great! I've already been to a couple parts stores and they don't have a clue what I'm talking about.

 

[Show Links]

Been there.

I'll definitely follow up.

 

[crutch]

Btw, anyone see any problems running the pertronix ii igniter with this adapter and HEI male cap conversion?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DirtDonk]

The Ignitor is just a trigger and doesn't care which cap and rotor you use. It only replaces the stuff below the rotor.
As long as the distributor body and base plate is the one that the Pertronix kit is designed to fit (points distributor in other words), it'll work just fine.

Paul