First start!!!!!...5.0 swap...disturbing noises..need advice from engine guys.. Updated 3/8 with oil pan removed and video link

[DirtDonk]

You would not have harmed the pump by running it backwards. Not that I can imagine anyway. It wouldn’t have pumped of course, but it shouldn’t have heard anything.
In the old days, we used to pack the pump vanes with grease for the initial start up. Built suction immediately that way.
But using a drill motor to run the pump instead, seems like a more surefire thing.

 

[skrit]

Well folks...looks like I'm too much of an amateur to rebuild an engine.

I dropped the oil pan and found small chunks of metal. Not many...but also lots of glitter. I obviously did something wrong. Could not see any signs of wear from underneath but something is not happy like @DirtDonk said.

Can the explorer 5.0 intake, front dress and EFI be adapted to any Blueprint (crate) 302 or similar SBF? I'll tear into this motor at some point in the future but I need to get this rig rolling this year!

 

[DirtDonk]

Pretty sure it can. But wait for those that know for sure to chime in. There can always be some variations in cylinder head port design that might not play as nicely with the intake manifold as others.
But this sucks either way!

 

[Soylent]

I plan on converting my BP 306 to serpentine. Currently it plays nicely with the standard Weiand street warrior. I will be using the Proflo so not sure if that is the same mating surfaces as the explorer efi.

 

[73azbronco]

Id kind of say valve train, collapsed lifter(s) if oil pump not priming everything... Especially if noise goes away. But, metal and shiney not good sorry. I'd, drop pan remove valve covers and look see. If I dont see any thing obvious, Flush oil, try again with cheap 30wt, see if it picks up shiney stuff again. If not check compression, and if good, drive the heck out of it.

Do you have any new valvetrain stuff, lifter, rocker, valves? But that shouldn't flood oil with shiney unless shop who did head is messy.

 

[skrit]

So I removed the radiator and fan to get to the crank bolt. I turned it and am hearing something that sounds loose. I think this motor can be salvaged with without pulling it out and tearing it down completely. It only ran for about 10 minutes before I shut it down. BTW, it turns much easier than when I tried when it was first buttoned up before mounting it to the chassis and 4r70w.

I tried to video the sound. Every time I move the crank bolt I hear metal on metal. Any ideas?

 

[skrit]

I think I found the source of the clank. I NEVER PUT THE NUTS ON THIS!

I know this doesn't explain the few small chunks and glitter in the oil pan but at least I hope this was the cause of the noise.

 

[DirtDonk]

Would indeed make the sound. Especially with a freshly started engine that might not be firing quite as evenly on all 8 as it would after it's run-in for a bit.
Which might also explain why the sound went away after awhile.

But check for clearances while you're this deep. Make sure the holes were not damaged, and make sure the studs are not hitting anything when the nuts are fully tightened.

Paul

 

[Bruners4]

I would pull the oil filter, cut it open and open up the filter material and see what is there. This will be a better indicator as to what is going on. Since the pan is off and you have access to the rod and main bearing caps, pull number 2 or 4 main and inspect the bearing insert. If it looks good, pull a rod cap and inspect the bearing insert. Rod bearings get pressurized oil after the main bearings are satisfied.

 

[dmoses42]

I'm not an engine surgeon, but my initial thought is this: if it would turn by hand without rods connected, then you buttoned it up and it would barely turn, I would check the rod bearings to make sure they match the crank. I know if the crank was turned/ground down the bearings would be a smaller working diameter (like 10 under, 20 under, etc) but if your crank wasn't turned, and they sent you 10 or 20 under bearings, you would have problems after you torque them down, like making it difficult to turn. And glitter upon starting. That is where I would personally start, unless you know for a fact that they match. Apologies if you've already done or thought of this.

 

[Timmy390]

Did you plastigauge to verify bearing clearance? Did you check ring gaps?

If it was hard to turn after assembly then my guess is a bearing clearance issue.

Tim

 

[dmoses42]

Did you plastigauge to verify bearing clearance? Did you check ring gaps?

If it was hard to turn after assembly then my guess is a bearing clearance issue.

Tim

Your response is way more eloquent than mine, but you have likely done more internal engine work than I have, LOL! I'm usually somewhere between Rain Man and Carl Childers, with a little bit of Forrest Gump sprinkled in....

 

[skrit]

Thanks all that have offered guidance.

I pulled 1 main cap and one rod cap...bearings look like new. All caps are torqued to spec and have play within tolerance.

After cleaning up the inside of the oil pan, what I thought were engine chunks appears to be casting material slag stuck on the inside of the pan in one area.... it's a cast aluminum pan. There was only a few tiny piece of metal about the size of a grain of sand I could fish out of the bottom of the pan with a magnet before dumping the rest of the oil. The larger chunks were aluminum that I probably knocked off when running my magnet around. I'm going to grind all those casting bits down smooth.

Note that I did a bit of an aggressive hone on the cylinders when building which may explain the glitter.

I'll cut open the oil filter and inspect. I'll also strain the oil and see what's left behind.

I'm feeling much more confident this engine will be just fine.

 

[skrit]

Did you plastigauge to verify bearing clearance? Did you check ring gaps?

If it was hard to turn after assembly then my guess is a bearing clearance issue.

Tim

I did use plasti gauge on the main caps. I did check ring clearances and all per spec. Though this is my first engine rebuild, I studied and followed all recommended torque and feeler gauge specs.

 

[fordguy]

I'm not an engine surgeon, but my initial thought is this: if it would turn by hand without rods connected, then you buttoned it up and it would barely turn, I would check the rod bearings to make sure they match the crank. I know if the crank was turned/ground down the bearings would be a smaller working diameter (like 10 under, 20 under, etc) but if your crank wasn't turned, and they sent you 10 or 20 under bearings, you would have problems after you torque them down, like making it difficult to turn. And glitter upon starting. That is where I would personally start, unless you know for a fact that they match. Apologies if you've already done or thought of this.

If rod caps are mixed it will cause hard turning. Mine locked up turning by hand because 1 and 7 were switched.