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Gear change and Spartan Locker Install

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lonesouth

lonesouth

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son of a gun, i never noticed the "2"...The gears will not be here in time for me to get them installed before a ride next saturday, so I'm going to run the mis-match for the day, running FWD if the rear wheels lose traction.
 

DirtDonk

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So you have twin-sticks? If not, just make sure that traction is near zero as you can arrange. The recommendations against using 4wd extensively on hard surfaces is only for those with correct ratios that vary only by a couple of percentage points.
When you've got a 3.50 vs 4.11 mismatch, that's a whole nutha' beast.

Since it's already run on the street and came out alive still, I'm guessing you can get away with just about anything in the dirt. But I like being over-cautious when hard work and extra money are involved!

Have a great time on the trail.

Paul
 
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lonesouth

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yes on twin sticks. I did not run long on the street, only enough to realize there was a problem. I'm hoping to not need 4wd at all, and be able to get out of any bind with either RWD or FWD. If those don't work, the winch will be the next step.


thanks for the advice while I battle through this.
 

bbow

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Turning wheels off the ground, the back spun about 1/4-1/3 turn faster than the front. Pulled the chunk, again, and checked the gear.

gear_zpsbv36iqtg.jpg


befuddled, I turned the pinion on the bench and counted again. 3.5 turns for one rotation. But that can't be, the gear is clearly marked 410. disassembled the 3rd member and counted teeth. AHHHH 35/10.

Ordered a set of richmond 4.11, should be here friday. Also going to pick up some new bolts while I'm at it.

Good news is that I can probably have the gears back in and the bronco ready to go in about 2-4 hours. I've gotten pretty good at snatching out the 3rd now.

Clearly looks like something I would do. I assume you were told they were 4:10's from the seller.
 
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lonesouth

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Got this buttoned up last night.

For the rear Ford 9"(9 inch)

Freeze your pinion gear, bake your bearing(or put a torch on the inner ring). This will allow the bearing to slide on without much force, no press required.

Freeze your carrier, bake you ring gear. Same thing, will allow you to get the two together with much less hassle.

Pinion nut torque spec is 175 ft/lbs, but you are shooting for 7-10 in/lbs in bearing preload. I started at 150 ft/lbs and checked the preload every 5 ft/lbs thereafter till I got the right spec. Landed around 160 ft/lbs on the pinion nut. This is deforming the crush sleeve until the right preload is achieved.

Torque Spec
Ring gear 65-80
Bearing caps 70-85
Adjuster nut Locks 12-25
Pinion housing 30-45
Carrier to housing 30-45

Carrier bearing preload is called out as case spread of around .008. I am guessing that is the deflection side to side allowed by the adjusters. I've seen other say make em tight, so that's what I did. Get the right backlash dialed in with the adjusters tight, then tighten the far side adjusted one more hole.

Right or wrong, I put red loctite on all internal bolts.

All said and done, it took about 3 hours to go from bare case, assembled differential and both gears on the bench to installed and on the ground. If I were starting from scratch, and had not already been through this exercise twice, I figure it would take about 4-5 hours per axle for a first timer; including time looking up torque specs, finding tools, drinking beer, etc.

If I ever have to do this again, I'll pull the axles, do the work, then reinstall the axles. I think that would be time well spent vs fighting stuff under the bronco.
 
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lonesouth

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spent some time in the woods on saturday. What a difference the lockers made. Had some decent obstacles, 18" tree to climb over, slick mud, deep mud. I only got stuck three times, first was in a creek with the front tires hard up on bank and the rears sliding on roots. In fairness, the jeep I was with also got stuck and the yota with 37s struggled. The other two were deep mud where the diffs landed on hard pack. Not enough fast areas to tell if the gears made much difference, but they did not explode, so I'm calling it a win.
 

Apogee

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Sounds like a win in my book...congrats on the successful shakedown run!
 
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lonesouth

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Got a new vibration after making the change. Well, two new vibrations.

- At part throttle, as though transitioning from power to coast, right in the sweet spot in the middle where it is almost floating, there is a noticeable vibration. It goes away with more or less power.

- Above 65mph, there is substantial vibration.

I briefly checked the rear driveshaft. All bolts were tight and there was zero play in any direction. Going to pull it and drive around on the front to see if it goes away, then figure the next steps from there.
 
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lonesouth

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it was rock solid when installed. no wiggle anywhere in the shaft. I'll see once I get it out, maybe tonight.
 

DirtDonk

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Did you fully lube every nook and cranny before or during the install? Whenever there's a weird, hard to find vibration, first place I look is the CV section. More than one time those pesky things have created a non-textbook vibration or noise.

The little female Zerk fitting is always one that needs to be taken care of. Usually easier when the shaft is out.

Paul
 
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lonesouth

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pulled the driveshaft, drove around, vibration gone...driving on the front with a locker up front...

Vector.jpg


I mean, it was scary, the thing would lock or unlock and damn near change lanes. Anyway, I was able to run it up to 65 in a straight line, no vibrations.

I dropped a u-join cap when I pulled the driveshaft. Saw a couple of needle bearings were broken, so I went ahead and got a new u-joint, autozone only had Moog, so $20 later.

Upon installing the driveshaft, I noticed there is considerable play in the splines. I'm talking 1/16-1/8 when all bolted up. I can't explain why there was no play last time I checked and it is wore out now. Regardless, I'm now looking to buy a new driveshaft.
 

DirtDonk

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Well bummer in the almost-summer there lonesouth. (great pic by the way!;D)
But at least the cost of a new quality EB shaft has actually come down over the years. At least from what I've seen.
Getting them made at the local driveshaft shop is still always an option. Especially if yours has reasonable pricing and turnaround. But off-the-shelf Bronco shafts are pretty inexpensive these days because of the bulk pricing. At least that's been my experience in recent years.
$250-ish gets you one from the EB vendors, where local ones around here can easily top $400 and more.
Hopefully Tallahassee has some good shops around. Or that shipping from out of town isn't too bad.

Good luck with the new shaft.

Paul
 
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lonesouth

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I checked around locally. Best option is a shop in Jacksonville, but the shipping and cost were unknown, and I don't want to wait that long or deal with the hassle. Went ahead and ordered a new shaft from WildHorses for just shy of $300 shipped.
 

DirtDonk

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Thanks for the support lonesouth. Glad we were able to get one out to you. Shipping turned out to be not too bad it sounds like. At least for across the country.

Be nice to get to drive on the rear wheels again!

Paul
 
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lonesouth

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New shaft in and things are running great. I also discovered that the pinion angle in the front will give me a vibration at speed. I pulled the driveshaft and it is in better shape than the back was. Easy solution is to leave the front hubs unlocked, no biggie.

After driving with the spartan for a while, I can say that I'm not really a fan. It has smoothed out a little since first installed, but it is still a little too tight for my liking. I would really prefer a trutrac, but that's not in the cards right now. If I had it to do again, I still would, since I do go offroad now and then, but I wouldn't recommend it for a DD. Also, any time I drive in my yard, moving trailers, boat, etc., the grass it tore up any where I made a turn.
 
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