How to tell what front end drive was retrofitted for serpentine system

[purkey]

I have a 73 with 302, the PO retrofitted an air conditioner and serpentine belt and tensioner. The belt is not labeled but the tensioner is an E8ZE-6B209-BA. Is there a way to determine what this came off of? I replaced the tensioner with a replacement for the above and belt with another that was close dimensionally but it squell like a pig now when I accelerate. If I lift off the accelerator it doesn't squell anymore. Think my belt is too tight also since when I "detention" the idler pulley with load it stops squelling. The belt I bought is a 7206k duralast. I tried a 7106k but it was too tight;. I measured the other belt but I tried to take into account stretch due to age so I went with a slightly less long belt. The other part of this is I replaced the automasters alt with a different one when it went bad; it's pulley is slightly more OD than the one that came on the new one.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Post a picture. There are several things it could be off of. Or even home made.

With the part number listed, probably late 80's or early 90's. Car, truck, or van are the three biggest ones of that time.

A squealing belt is one that is too loose, not too tight.

 

[purkey]

It squeeled with the 7106k belt (shorter) also. I couldn't get the belt under the idler pulley with a shorter belt.
The auto tensioner is almost vertically down. I checked deflection and it is between 1/2" and 1/4" using a straight edge. If I detension the idler by lifting up on about an 1/2" to 3/4" it stops squeeling. How do you determine the correct angle of the idler?

I tried to check misalignment but couldn't determine if it was or not.

Sitting in an airport or I would post pics, none are on this phone.

Should mention that it turns the alt, water pump (by running on top of the pulley), the A/C, and crankshaft.

 

[ransil]

squealing belt could be crap on the pulleys

 

[tasker]

FOX MUSTANG is my guess with what you posted for the tensioner

 

[DirtDonk]

Is the new alternator substantially more powerful, or perhaps more important, physically larger?

Yes, a squealing belt is usually too loose (slipping) but by loosening it up you could also be putting it into a situation where it slips so easily it no longer squeals. But it's still slipping.
Apparently though, you can't get tight enough for it not to squeal? That's a tough one then, and I would agree to check and clean all the pulleys, both smooth and grooved.

Definitely get some pics for us if you can.

Paul

 

[Broncobowsher]

Could also be routing isn't allowing enough belt contact to a pulley. Things can get weird when people adapt stuff. Especially if it wasn't adapted completely as the donor vehicle had it. Pictures are needed, not optional. Even if you figure what the original vehicle was doesn't mean that is how it was installed.

 

[spap]

What alternator do you have, if a G3 was retrofitted they will squeel a bit if it isn’t the original set up

 

[purkey]

The alt was the same size amp wise as the old alt. The pulley is smaller on the new one though. My next step is to swap pulleys from the old to the new.
These pics are of the old setup. Don't have pics of the new setup

 

[purkey]

I replaced the alt with another alt from Automasters (same model as the original).

 

[Justafordguy]

I bet the smaller pulley on the new alternator is your problem. It's trying to turn it to fast.

 

[Broncobowsher]

If you look at the front of the tensioner there is an arrow and a window marked with "range". The arrow needs to be in that window. The belt is too long. Need a shorter belt to get the tensioner in the range.

Looks like a mustang ('85-93) based belt drive that is missing the smog pump and power steering.

 

[surfer-b]

That's a Mustang serp setup without the smog pump and looks like the belt is too long, the tensioner looks to be almost vertical, it should be close to the 4 or 5 o'clock position. Here is a pic of one with same setup
Nevermind BB beat me to the post

 

[SevenT]

Sepentine system

Purkey,

All responses are correct about that being a Mustang serpentine system. The number you have on the tensioner makes it a 1988. C = 60, D = 70, E = 80 for Ford part numbers. Example, everyone wanted the E7TE head on their 5.0 because it was the reworked 85 truck head for better flow and more horsepower before Twisted Wedge and AFR.

v/r,

SevenT

 

[ransil]

try this, looks like you need a 74' belt

https://lmr.com/products/fox-body-belt-routing-length-50

I would also clean the rust off all the pully's.
Never put belt dressing on a belt.
Final cleaning should be done with a de- greaser ( soap)

That alternator might change the belt length.

 

[Hozr]

try this, looks like you need a 74' belt

That alternator might change the belt length.

But not to 74'! maybe 74"....sorry....

 

[purkey]

Bought a 705K6 belt when I got home today and put it on; worked perfectly. With the smaller pulley on the new alt I guess what I was using was too long even though it was shorter than the belt I took off. I also took a closer look at the new idler, it's pulley is smaller than the original one also. The two smaller pulleys is probably what did me in.
Thanks for everyone's input and especially the diagrams with lengths.

 

[Crush]

if you put a mustang power steering pump on there to convert to power steering then you will need a 77" belt. I have done several mustangs that way