Will I regret not going with 35s?

[DirtDonk]

Sounds like a plan. I think that tire size is better overall anyway, than going larger still.
You should be ok with first gear and getting off the line with 4.11's, but like I mentioned, the overdrive will be less than ideal unless you have a stump-puller build for an engine.
And even then...

So what is/will the engine be?

Paul

 

[Sendero]

I just saw that too. Was nice to see some C-rated tires again, rather than the plethora of E-rated tires. Been a long time!

Paul

Educate me on running c-rated tires vs running e-rated please? I understand it is load range so what is the downfall of running e? They are heavier and slow the bronco down? I get that no one is towing heavy loads so it makes sense to go with c?

 

[Sendero]

Sounds like a plan. I think that tire size is better overall anyway, than going larger still.
You should be ok with first gear and getting off the line with 4.11's, but like I mentioned, the overdrive will be less than ideal unless you have a stump-puller build for an engine.
And even then...

So what is/will the engine be?

Paul

You are asking this question at the right time. I have sourced the transmission, transfer case, gears etc but the engine is still up in the air. I have a 302 out of a 92 mustang I may have built into a 331 stroker. If not, I would probably go with a 351w.

 

[toddz69]

Educate me on running c-rated tires vs running e-rated please? I understand it is load range so what is the downfall of running e? They are heavier and slow the bronco down? I get that no one is towing heavy loads so it makes sense to go with c?

E-rated tires have higher load ratings than C-rated tires and often have thicker sidewalls, which help with the load rating. They often are heavier too, but the difference is often negligible. My 285/75/17 tires were E-rated and definitely had a harder ride than the C-rated tires I ran in all the years prior. I switched to C-rated K02s (Jeep Rubicon take-offs) in 2019 and feel they ride better than the E-rated tires (and exhibit a lot more tread wear too).

Years ago, we referred to tire stiffness/load rating by "plies". 4 ply, 6 ply, 10 ply, etc. I think some of the tires we ran in the 70s/80s were actually 4 ply tires - I don't recall for certain. 6 ply tires are now called load range C and 10 ply tires are now called load range E.

Todd Z.

 

[DirtDonk]

Weren't the Armstrong True-Trac(sp?) tires 4-ply?
All I knew was that they were cool!
Well, they weren't exactly overly expensive either, which helped a lot too. I paid $49 per tire at WD in about '77 or so.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

You are asking this question at the right time. I have sourced the transmission, transfer case, gears etc but the engine is still up in the air. I have a 302 out of a 92 mustang I may have built into a 331 stroker. If not, I would probably go with a 351w.

If you build a clean running (efi?) engine with lots of torque below 3500 rpm, then overdrive is more usable. Too much attention to high-end horsepower numbers might negate some of the benefit.
For example, a Bronco (or any vehicle for that matter) with 4.11's and 32.4" tall tires (measured with the weight on the ground) sporting a standard 3-speed transmission with 1:1 3rd gear and running 65mph down the highway is turning at approx. 2800 rpm.
Your combination with would be doing the same in 4th gear, but about 2200 in 5th.
It's not the end of the world, but the stronger the engine runs at those lower rpm levels, the better.

Paul

 

[toddz69]

Weren't the Armstrong True-Trac(sp?) tires 4-ply?
All I knew was that they were cool!
Well, they weren't exactly overly expensive either, which helped a lot too. I paid $49 per tire at WD in about '77 or so.

Paul

Yes, I believe they were - that's one example I had in my head from those days.

Todd Z.

 

[jamesroney]

If you build a clean running (efi?) engine with lots of torque below 3500 rpm, then overdrive is more usable. Too much attention to high-end horsepower numbers might negate some of the benefit.
For example, a Bronco (or any vehicle for that matter) with 4.11's and 32.4" tall tires (measured with the weight on the ground) sporting a standard 3-speed transmission with 1:1 3rd gear and running 65mph down the highway is turning at approx. 2800 rpm.
Your combination with would be doing the same in 4th gear, but about 2200 in 5th.
It's not the end of the world, but the stronger the engine runs at those lower rpm levels, the better.

Paul

Paul's point is subtle, but VERY important. I'm not so subtle.

If you like driving a Volkswagen Beetle with 40 horsepower, and you know the feeling of mashing down the throttle, and NOTHING HAPPENS...then you start to understand the importance of gear selection.

The 2003 Wrangler Rubicon is factory equipped with the NV3550, and a set of 4.10 axle gears. Factory tires were 245/75/16 Goodrich MT/R's. That ran the venerable AMC 4.0L I6, 190HP, 235 lb-ft of torque. There is no shortage of TJ Rubicons running on 35's. 5th gear is perfectly serviceable on the highway. Acceleration in 5th at 65MPH is non-existant. I think mine actually slows down when the pedal is depressed.

Fast forward to 2005, and the NV3550 was de-upgraded to the NSG370. It has a .84 OD, which is not as tall as the .78OD of the 3550. So when coupled with the 3.8L V6 Chrylser minivan motor (202HP, 237lb-ft) in the 2007 Rubicon, it could accelerate slightly in 6th. Same torque as the TJ, but it comes in much later RPM. If you see a hill on a freeway, (or hear about one coming up...) then you need to downshift. Early, and often. But the JKR and the TJR behave similarly on 35's with 4.10's. Fast forward to 2012, and the JKR got the 3.6 Pentastar engine, at 280HP, 255 lb-ft. Just like the previous minivan V6, you need to call ahead if you want to pass anything. ALL of these Rubicons run 35's on stock 4.10 gears, and they are wildly popular.

BUT...if you are used to spirited accleration, and sporty manuevers on the highway without having to row the gearshift 3 times...then watch out! One thing that Bronco owners seem to love is the reaction, response, and acceleration of the free rev-ing V8. But that ONLY happens if you stay in the powerband. Which you cannot do in 5th gear on 35's. If feels like you are driving a stock 1996 Ford Explorer. (because you are...) In the Bronco, you will step on the gas, and nothing happens, you will downshift to 4th, and realize that you probably could have grabbed 3rd. But 3rd is too low...and like elephant's mating...there is a lot of noise, grunting, and a cloud of dust. 13 months later...you may discover something exciting.

So it's really all about expectation, and learning to live with compromise. But do you really own an Early Bronco so that you can compromise? They sell Jeeps for that...

 

[Tricky Dick]

Paul's point is subtle, but VERY important. I'm not so subtle.

If you like driving a Volkswagen Beetle with 40 horsepower, and you know the feeling of mashing down the throttle, and NOTHING HAPPENS...then you start to understand the importance of gear selection.

The 2003 Wrangler Rubicon is factory equipped with the NV3550, and a set of 4.10 axle gears. Factory tires were 245/75/16 Goodrich MT/R's. That ran the venerable AMC 4.0L I6, 190HP, 235 lb-ft of torque. There is no shortage of TJ Rubicons running on 35's. 5th gear is perfectly serviceable on the highway. Acceleration in 5th at 65MPH is non-existant. I think mine actually slows down when the pedal is depressed.

Fast forward to 2005, and the NV3550 was de-upgraded to the NSG370. It has a .84 OD, which is not as tall as the .78OD of the 3550. So when coupled with the 3.8L V6 Chrylser minivan motor (202HP, 237lb-ft) in the 2007 Rubicon, it could accelerate slightly in 6th. Same torque as the TJ, but it comes in much later RPM. If you see a hill on a freeway, (or hear about one coming up...) then you need to downshift. Early, and often. But the JKR and the TJR behave similarly on 35's with 4.10's. Fast forward to 2012, and the JKR got the 3.6 Pentastar engine, at 280HP, 255 lb-ft. Just like the previous minivan V6, you need to call ahead if you want to pass anything. ALL of these Rubicons run 35's on stock 4.10 gears, and they are wildly popular.

BUT...if you are used to spirited accleration, and sporty manuevers on the highway without having to row the gearshift 3 times...then watch out! One thing that Bronco owners seem to love is the reaction, response, and acceleration of the free rev-ing V8. But that ONLY happens if you stay in the powerband. Which you cannot do in 5th gear on 35's. If feels like you are driving a stock 1996 Ford Explorer. (because you are...) In the Bronco, you will step on the gas, and nothing happens, you will downshift to 4th, and realize that you probably could have grabbed 3rd. But 3rd is too low...and like elephant's mating...there is a lot of noise, grunting, and a cloud of dust. 13 months later...you may discover something exciting.

So it's really all about expectation, and learning to live with compromise. But do you really own an Early Bronco so that you can compromise? They sell Jeeps for that...

Or to keep it in the family, even the 6G Bronco is in no hurry to get moving in 5th or 6th. As a matter of fact it has to work so hard in 6th that mileage drops off so I never use 6th anymore. It's more efficient to spin 3k in 5th than 2500 in 6th. This is with 35s and 4.70 gearing, but 0.78 and 0.65 overdrives.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I remember a friend did a mustang 5.0 swap 20ish years ago when that was the go to swap. Pulled a 351 to put it in. NP435 (no overdrive) and 4.11 gears. Ran good with 33s. Stepped up to 35s. I still remember the comment that it could use a little more gear with the 35s. He did a lot of highway miles, daily driver. Also extended bumpstops that killed wheel travel on the rear axle to keep the tires out of the body, this was after doing a body lift. That's what kept me from ever going to 35s. All the work to get 35s to really fit right, might as well go to 37s.

My favorite was actually 33s and NO lift. Best on the road. I only did the lift as I was taking harder and harder trails and was starting to drag too much stuff. You won't be doing that with a restored rig.

 

[fordfan]

When I hear this kind of question, I'm always reminded of what John Karp of K bar S Broncos Specialties always said.

" 33" TIRES ARE THE OPTIMUM SIZE FOR A STREET AND TRAIL BRONCO"

Yes, 33" tires may not be the size you want or even need, depending on the difficulty of the trail. You may need 38"s or 42"s or 54"s..... But for a Street and Trail Bronco, 33" are best!

I have Broncos with tires that go from a 6.50-15 up to 38-15.50-16 and each one has it's advantages depending on conditions, but the ultimate driving bronco has 33" tires! A lot has been said about gearing. Yes, that's very necessary to match gears with tire circumference. What about the physics of a 92" wheelbase vehicle that is about 75" wide that has been lifted 6" or more over stock cruising the interstate at 80 mph? To help you comprehend the size of our beloved early Bronco, look at a two door Mini Cooper and visualize it on 35" tires. The wheel base and track width is almost identical to a Mini Cooper!!

If you are planning on far more trail than street, go 35's or larger. If you want a fun driving, great handling street Bronco that sees offroad occasionally, 33's are the way to go!

Just ask John! He built his share of Broncos.. Or ask James Duff....He has built a bunch too! He says the same thing. I've ask him! The 33's on the Pony Express didn't happen by accident. James told me they would race on backstreets after work and jump the storm drains!

 

[Shimmy]

Educate me on running c-rated tires vs running e-rated please? I understand it is load range so what is the downfall of running e? They are heavier and slow the bronco down? I get that no one is towing heavy loads so it makes sense to go with c?

read up further here
https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/what-are-load-ranges-ply-ratings

I would not run an E rated tire for a bronco thats mostly going to see pavement. It will ride very harsh, be heavier, and you dont need the extra stoutness from the sidewalls. my mickey thompsons are D rated and i wish they were C. a lot of 17" options are E rated, so be sure to check before buying

 

[ba123]

not all 35's are actually 35 and not all 33's are actually 33...

As others have said, 35's are unlikely to fit with 2.5" and 1".

These are 34.5" I think and a 3.5"/1":

Really hard to tell, but everyone who comes by and sees them I person is like. Whoa, those wheels/tires are HUGE.

I say stick with 33’s. If you ever want more height then update the suspension and get bigger tires but I don’t think you need them and I don’t think I needed mine. Gonna add amp steps sp the wife doesn’t scratch my paint climbing in!!!

 

[Shimmy]

isn't the Lick Creek duck tuff bronco running 35s with 2.5 SL and 1 BL?

 

[nvrstuk]

When I hear this kind of question, I'm always reminded of what John Karp of K bar S Broncos Specialties always said.

" 33" TIRES ARE THE OPTIMUM SIZE FOR A STREET AND TRAIL BRONCO"

Yes, 33" tires may not be the size you want or even need, depending on the difficulty of the trail. You may need 38"s or 42"s or 54"s..... But for a Street and Trail Bronco, 33" are best!

I have Broncos with tires that go from a 6.50-15 up to 38-15.50-16 and each one has it's advantages depending on conditions, but the ultimate driving bronco has 33" tires! A lot has been said about gearing. Yes, that's very necessary to match gears with tire circumference. What about the physics of a 92" wheelbase vehicle that is about 75" wide that has been lifted 6" or more over stock cruising the interstate at 80 mph? To help you comprehend the size of our beloved early Bronco, look at a two door Mini Cooper and visualize it on 35" tires. The wheel base and track width is almost identical to a Mini Cooper!!

If you are planning on far more trail than street, go 35's or larger. If you want a fun driving, great handling street Bronco that sees offroad occasionally, 33's are the way to go!

Just ask John! He built his share of Broncos.. Or ask James Duff....He has built a bunch too! He says the same thing. I've ask him! The 33's on the Pony Express didn't happen by accident. James told me they would race on backstreets after work and jump the storm drains!

Yup...and then you can upgrade and alter suspensions so you can have a safe ride on taller tires. Not a Mini Cooper S tho!!


New suspension offerings make a huge difference for a short, narrow high COG Bronco.


I got past the sluggish response by building strokers so I could get 125# tires rotating quickly and upgraded brakes so they could stop quicker. My suspension doesn't have springs or shocks. I have lengthened my WB by 8" and nobody notices. I mean nobody asks, but it makes a huge difference on the highway,.The width has been increased by 6+ inches but the fw axles are narrowed over 6" so you look more "stockish" but the tires only stick out 3" past the rear flares. It can be done.

What I'm saying is there is no hard and fast rules anymore.

I understand that 33"s are great on the road (I used to run them) and in the desert they work great. I play in deep snow and 33"s won't get you anywhere. I average driving 150-180 miles/week from 35-70mph. Yes, my sports cars handled better but they didn't do well off road. Everything is a compromise when you try to go around a corner AND go over 3' dia rocks & trees!

Load range C tires usually flex better off road because like Todd and others mentioned they are designed to hold up less weight so they will flex better and give you a smoother ride, a noticeably smoother ride.

I run 40"s with the equiv of a 2 1/2" lift with 16" of travel.

Stock rig, mostly street- make it 33"s!

 

[1969]

I prefer tons and 37s+.. it’ll go to the rubicon once a year or more, and the rest of the time it will be an ice cream getter. Could I get through the rubicon on stock axles and 33s? Yup most definitely but that’s not my style so I built it how I wanted it built. I don’t care if it doesn’t accelerate quickly and I have to cruise along that’s what I got it for. A lot of people here on the forum want 500hp+ engines in these tin cans but it’ll never be useable as James has mentioned before. If you want 35s purely for looks then I say do it! If you don’t feel like the 4.10s are enough after driving it around throw some 4.88s in it.

 

[nvrstuk]

OK, back to 500hp never being usable. Sorry if I'm harsh but you nay-sayers have not gone where I go with my buddys-and you won't ever get to w/o 500+ hp. Never!

I can set you up with a ride with a few of my buddy's or myself and in 5 minutes you'll understand what 500+ or 600+ hp allows you to do what you just can't do without it-nope, not even close.

Obvious as black & white and several of us corrected James on that mistaken unqualified claim also (& others).

I get tired of hearing so many say "yeah, you can't use anything more than 300 hp what a waste of money".

Well, I guess I could be just as brash and say for those that say 4-500+ hp is a waste of money I could say you are missing out on places you cannot go because your Bronco isn't equipped for it.

Ask around to those that just don't play on the street or rock crawl where, why & how 500 or 600 hp or more is needed. Kinda like saying it's a waste of money to have lockers frt & rear or a winch, or larger tires or efi for extreme off camber, or low gearing or whatever because you've never had the opportunity to see what you're missing. lol

 

[Yeller]

both camps are right, build what fits your desires, style and can/willing to afford. Anything that get you out where you want to go safely is the right answer.

 

[67sport]

To the OP, you have have achieved responses from all of the forums current heavy hitters. Nicely done!

There is not one answer to your question, but the right answer to your question is more tire is better.

You can apply common sense to owning a Bronco all you want, but common sense falls apart as soon as you own a Bronco. Use the truck to satisfy your dreams. If you want a small bodied truck on 35s, put it on 35s. I've got one on 38's and one on 32's. I still want one bigger and one smaller!

It is a great battle to lose.

 

[spap]

You can go to tire rack and see the actual height of the tire you want
I have 35/12.5/15 bfg at. And they run 34.5 inches tall or maybe a littl te shorter
haaa glad you have t make the decision and I don’t.