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I've been fighting a valve cover oil leak and losing. I noticed my valve cover was puffing slightly at idle so I upped my PCV size til I had a slight amount of pull (per Hayne's manual instructions) and changed breather caps, but still have the problem. I did notice though that if I look down...

I really like the idea of putting my mother in law under that -- no door %)

Strap / chain Food and drink hi lift jack flashlight change of clothes type F fluid girlfriend/fiance/wife All of these are from experiences when I didn't have them, and wished I did. ;D

Man thats the truth. In the course of changing an alternator, PS gearbox and adjusting the doors my dad and I have managed to lose 4 washers 1 nut 2 bolts and a socket. And we use a tray to hold the loose parts ?:?

I already considered Goonies to be one of the best movies ever...now my opinion of it is even higher 8-)

Ditto that. I took an IC engines class last semester so some of this stuff is still bouncing around in my head. But guys like Broncobowsher put me to shame. Its good reading, good stuff to know ;D

wait so the intermediate housing between the transfer case and the c4 should have no type F or gear oil in it? it should be empty?

Thanks, I'll check that out. A body shop guy actually told me the same thing. He suggested shimming it up. How can I know if the mount is worn out or if it needs shims?

My Duff's headers are nice. They do barely touch the spark plug boot on the #2 cylinder though. And my under hood temp is about a zillion degrees :p

Ah that makes sense. Especially because the ignition point is a few degrees bTDC. In order for it to continue dieseling I'd also then point to an over-rich mixture for two reasons... one because that would give the engine fuel to consume as it ran backwards, and two because lean mixtures...

I agree with the diagnosis of dieseling and pinging, but is 10:1 really enough to cause pinging with regular fuel? Could you go into detail of how dieseling could make the motor run backwards? Because I think that would reverse the whole air flow, from intake to exhaust...and blow all the gas...

to the top. %)

here's some pictures. Circled area is where the door has hit the bottom corner of the top. Large gap between the windshield and the front frame...you can see into the cab. Circled area is where drivers side door has clipped windshield frame. Large gap between tailgate and liftgate. Gap...

Theres weather stripping there...the gap is between the door and the gasket.

Yeah that is whats leaking on mine, but the bolts are tight. ?:?

I ordered a replacement gasket for the area that was leaking (intermediate housing gasket). It was really thin and upon inspection the other gasket looked fine...all bolts tight, it wasn't torn or anything. Had my mechanic make a gasket out of thicker gasket paper...worked for a day and now it...

I'm not a mechanic at all but I'm about 100 times more comfortable under the hood than with body work...so bear with me! There are about five different things contributing to a problem here, and I don't know where to go. Part 1: I have a gap that runs along the between the windshield and the...

I was looking at my trac bar and I was wondering if anyone had some closeup shots of how theirs is attached? People mentioned bad bushings...I'm not sure how to check other than the wiggle test. Thanks for all the good info :)

So your answer -- drop the track bar bracket to make it less steep and replace stock tie rod setup with heim or DOM to decrease drag link angle?

Here's mine. They look decently parallel to me, but I don't know much about suspensions.