Today I gutted my driver's door and put a fresh rattle can on it, at least it's all one color now..
Ventless windows?The paint isn't too far off and I got the door put back together tonight, what a pain! View attachment 914988
That was before I got it all back together. Here's a completed picture.Ventless windows?
After getting a new Dremel and finishing the removal of the T-shifter, I loosened all of the bolts and removed the crossmember. I test fitted my trans jack several times to make sure it would hold the trans/D20 without tipping. Glad I looked at the ground before I strapped the trans on to remove/lower it, all of the ball bearings fell out. Buying a new one today to finish the job, my current one would probably still work but I don't want to get it on there and it fails with no option to raise or lower.Been spending more time on my '78 lately, so the '67 has been sitting. Fired up the garage heater yesterday to start removing engine/trans/D20 so I can finish cleaning/painting the frame. It was going great until I needed to cut the bolt off the T-shifter to remove it from the trans adapter, not enough room even with 1" lift, and my Dremel died halfway through the bolt. 3rd one that has died in the last couple of years. Going to pick up another, but maybe I will try the cordless version, previous ones were all corded.
Rented it out for a wedding
Wooden blocks and ratchet straps are essential tools!!! Good job!!!It took me a lot longer than it should have, but it is finally out. It is a fairly easy job, but the layers of dirt/grease and broken tools made it interesting. The upside of all that grease is that the underside metal looks great! I couldn't see the transmission mount bolt heads until I turned them and broke the crud away. The trans jack worked well and was stable with the strap. It was nice not having to put it lower on jack stands, making it harder to get the trans out because the frame is now too low. All I had to do was jack up the passenger side of the frame a few inches, and the jack wheeled right out. This worked with my lift, 2 1/2" and wheels 32". When I reinstall the trans/D20, I will probably make a wooden cradle to put the trans at the correct position and angle.
View attachment 915080
Buried bolt head
View attachment 915081
That.is.slick.Mocked up Hydroboost. Moved it over 11" from stock MC location. Sits over driver's side fender now. Made a cad drawing of 1/4" plate to support it all on the firewall and had it burnt out on a burn table. Modified the pedal assembly with longer shaft and pinned the brake pedal boss to the shaft with a hardened pin. clutch pedal floats on the shaft, so still able to use clutch pedal and rod. Still need to add bronze bushing in the support at the end of the shaft, lengthen the HB actuator rod, and weld the lever to the shaft. Got the idea from a couple members on here, Spaggyroe and Madgyver.
View attachment 915360 View attachment 915361 View attachment 915362 View attachment 915364
Ambitious!Mocked up Hydroboost. Moved it over 11" from stock MC location. Sits over driver's side fender now. Made a cad drawing of 1/4" plate to support it all on the firewall and had it burnt out on a burn table. Modified the pedal assembly with longer shaft and pinned the brake pedal boss to the shaft with a hardened pin. clutch pedal floats on the shaft, so still able to use clutch pedal and rod. Still need to add bronze bushing in the support at the end of the shaft, lengthen the HB actuator rod, and weld the lever to the shaft. Got the idea from a couple members on here, Spaggyroe and Madgyver.
View attachment 915360 View attachment 915361 View attachment 915362 View attachment 915364