4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

[nvrstuk]

Back in the SOB Bronco Sand Lake days there was a Bronco that ran dual rect lights, stacked in the grill.

They fit... not sure about the look but..
They fit!

 

[ssray]

It’s interesting how preferences run. Back when I got the EB it didn’t take long for the rear fender to disappear. I like old classic cars but for whatever reason have never been able to handle wheel pants on the older cars. That back end reminded me of wheel pants. Lol

I also probably committed Bronco blasphemy years ago when I put the 8274 on. Had heard about approach angle but didn’t really have the tools to build a lot. Hard to tell from the avatar but the grill and bumper are gone where the Warn sits. Got great approach angle for stock.

 

[nvrstuk]

Front tube time which includes a replacement for my old skool Granada radiator.

I've been researching the fine details of radiator core design and construction. Fun to learn and it's been fun talking to Ron again at RD, top guys at DeWitts, Griffin, etc.

I'll put a little radiator info here then I'll ask for feedback on tubing the front. Want to go simple (change for me).

Copper/brass vrs alum. Check out the heat transfer studies and alum is a distant second place. Check out the detail of how they are built and an alum makes quantum leaps towards almost equal heat transfer/dissappation because the lead used when soldering has terrible heat transfer. Alum rad's can be made with larger tube diameter than copper/brass (unless the alum cores are imported/cheap from China) and the air flows with less restriction over 2 large diameter alum tubes with less static pressure drop than air flowing across 3 or 4 smaller diameter rows common in copper/brass radiator or thru 4 core alum builds like Champion builds.

Form your own opinions on durability, corrosion, etc, etc. Lot's of myths, lot's of good info out there.

Champion uses .62" dia tubes. Smallest that I know of for a reason. CHEEEAPER. They push 3 row for cooling needs but a 3 row, .62" core core has less surface area than a 2 row, 1" tube. The multiple rows restrict air flow also. Especially at crawling speeds, stoplights, etc. Probably fine for a 5.0... marginal at best for anything with double or more HP. Especially at lower rpm and mph

Simplest explanation here: https://www.dewitts.com/blogs/news/14141757-are-three-row-aluminum-radiators-better-than-two


Griffin, Ron Davis, DeWitt and others all make alum. Nobody uses epoxy to make joints 100% leak free anymore it seems like-which is a good thing.

I am on the edge and haven't decided between a 2 core 1" tube or a 2 core 1 1/4" tube design. The larger tube is supposed to cool quite a bit better but ALL the owners/shop foreman guys I talked with all said that this helps cars more than a slow rock crawler type situation because of the "ram air" effect as you drive down the highway. NO fan type can supply the equivalent air flow that 50-100 mph of air flow at highway speed can. So if I can pull enough air at low rpm through it with my Explorer steel clutch fan w/sealed shroud I can go with the the larger tube.

I am going with a direct replacement size radiator so I can replace it with an inefficient OE off the shelf NAPA radiator if mine gets a stick rammed thru it(a thousand miles from home) to save a vacation.

Other option is a "Universal Fit" that Griffin sells themselves, Summit, Jegs, etc. 1/3rd the price. I could buy 2 and have one sitting on the shelf at home for a spare. lol

 

[Madgyver]

I have gone through soo many aluminum radiators that I'm going back to the original copper core. i look back and the copper core radiators that I had lasted so much more longer than the aluminum radiators that I've used(abused)... I have to accept the fact that these are consumable parts that needs replacement after so many years...

 

[nvrstuk]

Not exactly the confidence vote I was looking for LOL

Can I ask some specifics?

I've had alum radiators in other vehicles that I bought used at 5-10 yrs old and I ran them daily for another 10 yrs... and they were OE when I sold them.

So the questions are:

- were the ones you had lesser quality than OE?

- was the mounting system such that it allowed the radiator to twist so it caused the core to leak?

- did you have anode's in yours?


I am only trying to figure out why you go thru so many. Maybe you are too! lol

I don't want to go down the same road so I'm glad you mentioned the problems you're had.

 

[markw]

Could be the Hawaiian salt air?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[ctay]

I've had very good luck with Ron Davis aluminum in all my builds. Years on several and no sign of problems.

 

[nvrstuk]

The decision was made to go with 2 rows of 1 1/4" tube on a Griffin Radiator.

 

[Yeller]

What are the overall and core dimensions?

 

[gclauson]

FWIW, I have been running an OEM-sized Griffin with that same tube config for 10 years with no leakage issues.

 

[nvrstuk]

gclauson.... glad to hear that!

Steve- it's a monster!

Core Size:26x19x2.68
Overall Size:31x19x3
Tube Size:1.25 (in)
Number of Rows:2
Outlets:TR - 1.5"/BL - 1.75"
Additional Information:No O

They have a couple "Universal Fit" ones that will fit in a Bronco frame rails and saves hundreds of $$$. Have some for that "other brand" engine also.

I did find out that the cores are identical for the Universal and Built to Exact Spec size radiators... saving hundreds of dollars for the exact same radiator makes sense to me... spent those savings somewhere else on the Bronco right? lol

 

[Yeller]

That’s the same size I have in the gmc, except it’s a cheap no name that I had. It takes forever to get up to temp and mechanical fan 5” back with no shroud, never gets above tstat temp even sitting still for extended periods in 100* summer heat. However the air conditioner condenser is crying for a shroud crawling in traffic so it’s on the todo list, has been for a few years. lol I guess that tells you how much time I spend in stop/go traffic.

Ran the same radiator on a 496 BBC that was let’s say not stock, never had any issues and it saw towing duty too.

 

[nvrstuk]

Maybe I might try one trans cooler. I've always run 2 trans coolers in series. A stacked plate Derale with an 8" fan under the radiator and that exits to my Super Duty cooler in front of the radiator. If this beast cools your truck that well in your climate maybe I only need the SD cooler in front of the radiator... sounds like it should be able to handle a little warm air from the trans getting sucked thru the radiator...

If it never warms up I could go with a Mark VIII fan.

 

[nvrstuk]

Steve- is your GMC fan mech or electric?

Currently, my engine brings my Granada radiator with Exploder dress up to temp in 40deg weather up to t-stat temp in about 2 miles. Stays there unless I'm working it really hard for 5minutes straight... sand dunes don't warm it up, 100deg temps don't heat it up, but 2' deep wet/heavy snow and 5,000 rpm will heat it to 210 or so.

Shouldn't be too big if the t-stat will block enough flow to bring it & keep it at temp.

 

[Yeller]

Its a stock mechanical with clutch, air movement is on par maybe even more than an explorer, its a LOT. I wish I could fit one one the bronco, it would solve any issue I have, but it just hits the hood...LOL. I do have a MVIII fan but I have to change the water pump back to a stock style C5 from the aftermarket universal B body/C5, the snout is too long and hits the motor on the fan. funny part is I have enough length space to go to a truck style, even longer water pump and stock fan but not the Mark VIII with out the shortest water pump made for my engine.

 

[nvrstuk]

It doesn't fit because we are trying to fit all this kewl stuff on a Bronco! If we had gotten into pickups or something with frame rails 4" wider and a foot longer this would be EASY!!

I might end up going electric if I don't need the air flow. I will start with what I have as adapting in an electric would be super easy.

I sure like the new brushless fan motors that are coming out. Controllers are spendy as heck but the fan blades sure pull more air (pitch design) and less amperage... kinda like our new brushless drills and grinders most of us have bought and now never use our stockpile of air tools because of them.

 

[marjama]

The decision was made to go with 2 rows of 1 1/4" tube on a Griffin Radiator.

Geez...are you going to mount that thing outside the grill?! It is a monster! (FWIW, I ran a Ron Davis for years with zero issues. Swapped over to a CBR for the new setup, and have no concerns.)

 

[nvrstuk]

Back at it, got some parts coming in... hard to tear it down. Just want to drive it everyday- and I have been.

 

[nvrstuk]

Got my trusty Granada brass radiator out, clutch fan nut took about 30 WHACKS with a dead blow, fan shroud is out, moving some stuff that's hanging on the core support then I'll take a ton of measurements and cut the core support out.

I don't have any body mounts up front so I can't rely on those to hold the front fenders in the proper position. I think I will make some shims the exact thickness to let the grill sit on which of course will support the outer fender skins. Thinking this thru several times and all I could do is tack a support from my strut supports to the fender as an anchor-might be worth it.

Things to do:

-New radiator going in.

Weights- the brass Granada weighs in at 34#
- the Griffin alum weighs in at 18 #


- Tube the front. Need a support for fenders, grill, radiator

- Move p/s box fwd appr 3"

- Extend my track bar to match the drag link length. Both are mounted the same distance from the p/s frame rail.

- new pitman arm will probably be needed unless I can tilt the box at the exact angle I need

- new strg column. Old one is totally shot, upper & lwr brgs, shaft, blinker mech. New tilt one that will accept a short hub and quick release so I can chain it in my Bronco when gone on hikes in the SW. Or take it with me in a backpack. They aren't strg this with a set of vise grips on the wheel with the ram. I can barely move the wheel when moving with the engine off.

More than I want to do right now but the front end has been temporarily mounted for 3 1/2 yrs of abuse. Don't want it falling off at Sand Hollow or some other place 1,000 miles from home.

 

[Yeller]

I’ve made and modified a lot of pitman arms over the years. They are not tempered and can be cut, welded and heated and twisted without ill side effects, there are some exceptions but not many.