4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

[nvrstuk]

Thanks Steve!

For some reason the "thrill" of tearing it down and making it all new again isn't there... maybe it was the year off with one shoulder, Frt wheel drive only (since I'd blown my last TruHi9) and not being able to fix it, and not being able to do a dang thing on it?? I dont' know,,,but here I go again!!

Bronco was limited to FWD only that entire time (11 months) with a new engine and with only one shoulder maybe it made me appreciate the sheer enjoyment of just being able to hop in and cruise anytime I want (which my wife just teases and smiles at)... so after 4 trips to town the long way and 4 cans of soup later (one per trip) at an expense of $20 in gas... just enjoy everyday you get... great therapy- right?? lol

 

[nvrstuk]

I compared the plastic and steel Exploder clutch fans last night after spending 30 mintues smacking the #*@&%#× out of the hub/nut with a deadblow .. thought it might be of interest to those wondering if there really is a difference besides the material it's made of.

 

[nvrstuk]

You can see that the plastic hub has a larger OD meaning it would block more air flow than the metal hub. Not a lot but thought I'd point it out.

Next 2 pics shows fan paddles are larger on the metal fan. Does that make them sound like a jet turbine like the OE 7 blade fan??? Hope the heck not. Buddy runs that one and if he's over 3500 rpm you can hear him coming a half mile away!

 

[nvrstuk]

Next couple of pics shows the paddle depth from frt to back of each paddle.

Fans are appr 18" in dia.

According to Rock Auto, 1998 had plastic and steel fan blades. 96-97 were steel and 99-2000 were plastic. (Got this info from another guy here on CB).

Here is a new hub that Viper told me has a more positive lockup than either the metal or plastic Ford OE one. Here is the part # for it: 4 Seasons part #46049 Summit has them $106. He says it has a more positive lockup. Good thing to know and try if you need it.

Thanks!

 

[Madgyver]

what fan did you end up using?

 

[nvrstuk]

I've been using the plastic for about 7 yrs. Will try the metal. Not sure I'll need either with this radiator.

 

[nvrstuk]

So 46 yrs of mods! I think I can remember what every hole and little bracket was for too! lol

I think the first thing I did back in '76 (not a mod by any means) was painting what I thought was soooo ugly- the silver ardent colored grill. Wasn't my thing in '76 or now. Just a personal taste is all.

First real mod was converting the vacuum swipes to electric. Used the vacuum mounting holes and did what Ford should have done- wiped the entire windshield i stead of leaving an 8" blind spot on the pass side when snowing out....what a joke.

 

[Yeller]

You have me thinking....... what is the OD of the exploder fan? I’d really like to do a mechanical fan but the stock ones for my application are about an 1-1/2” too big in diameter to clear the hood

 

[nvrstuk]

I'll measure right after dinner. I just msg'd you a video.

 

[nvrstuk]

My concern when I narrowed/installed the D60 was having full lock to lock for our narrow PNW trees/trails and limiting bump steer.

My concern with this pic is this: is the drag link too far forward in relation to the tie rod? With 16" of vertical travel when the suspension droops I don't want the drag link to be what might be the cause of a new "arc", potentially causing some bump steer?? Make sense or am I making this up? lol

 

[nvrstuk]

Well, I've talked to my two "go to guys" that build buggy's and top end street custom rods/trucks & suspension and both feel 90-100% that I'll be good. I'll do some measuring to double check acceptable movement when things are tacked into place but I'm confident that I'll be good to go!

Starting next Friday.

 

[DirtDonk]

Where does it mount down at the bottom? Direct to the knuckle, or at some point on the tie-rod?

The forward/rearward angle does not necessarily cause any major issues if it's mounted to the knuckle, but could cause rotational movements relative to the side-to-side movement if it's mounted to the tie-rod.
The angle will also slow down the steering, or however you want to phrase it, by being less linear in it's ability to push the tie-rod side to side.
I don't think it's a lot, but it's a thing.

Paul

 

[ssray]

On the topic of stuffing radiators, condenser’s and maybe even intercoolers in some cases, has anyone ever stretched the front end of a Bronco? I couldn’t summon up any posts with a google search but there’s so many related to axles they kinda dominate. In looking at mine it seems like maybe the very rear of the outer skins could have a piece spliced in. Inner fender being flat panels would provide options. The hood would be tricky unless it would be possible to make a filler panel in front of the windshield and just move the hood forward. Frame? Not really sure, but likely tougher than a rear stretch because of everything that attaches up front. If you’re reworking the suspension and or steering then I suppose it comes down to engine mounts. As far as looks, with something like 35 or 37” tires I wonder if 3 or 4 inches would be detectable at first look? Thoughts?

Scott

 

[nvrstuk]

Thanks Paul. I mount directly to the knuckle, exact ht of tie rod (same bolt actually thru 3 pcs of metal for shear).

Been busy in Halfway, Oregon today. Weather is supposed to be like this all week and the snow is 15' deep. Couple "stucks", the track trench is shoulder level to the snow surface. Epic day.

Start back on the Bronco again end of the week... probably not if the snow and weather stays like this tho... gotta play while the snow is good!

 

[nvrstuk]

I have thought for years that stretching the body up frt would solve lot's of issues. Wish I had 8hr/day to work on Broncos and learn all kinds of new stuff about modding them.

Finally made a little progress. Cut off the upper track bar mount I made decades ago.
Slid the ps box forward to clear the soon to be relocated upper track bar mount and raised and lowered and articulated the axle about 6 times. Looks like it'll fit- barely.

 

[nvrstuk]

Clearance measurements. To center the body on the frame rails I need to move it over 1/4" then the pan won't hit the D60 dif.

You can see how much I had to add to the track bar. 1" solid CR bar inside and plug welded and then I slid this pc of DOM I had to butt weld it up in place so you won't even know its spliced.

 

[Yeller]

Looking good, remember just barely is enough and absolutely perfect;D

 

[nvrstuk]

"Just barely" takes forever!! lol

So as I'm struggling to find shop time the past 3 weeks (can't whine as I've squeezed some play time in) I've been thinking about the 3 link we talked about years ago. Might not be the time but if I need to change anything now to make it easier for going that direction.

Physically cutting off the entire long arm brackets would probably keep me from doing the 3 link. If I can cut those brackets back far enough then add mounting "tabs" (about the same lower vertical location but closer to the axle) for the heims to mount to I could do it. I'll get a pic. Pipe dream... lol

 

[nvrstuk]

"New" track bar. This is the 2nd pass and I will sand it down to look like one pc.

 

[nvrstuk]

Here's the box held in with one bolt and the drag link setting in a temporary position just to look at the drag link angle back to the pass side mount for both the drag link and track bar.

What a mess dealing with ps fluid and hoses... messy.