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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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Firebronco alum also then? Since it's already leaking?

My brass radiators all lasted 15 yrs plus.

My Ron Davis wouldnt cool with the SAME everything.

RD is expensive. Sold it at a swap meet after 6 mo of trying to get the best in the business to work while replacing it with same core size, same mts, same shroud and fan depth mounting distance, same fan wirh a Oreillys $250 OE replacement for a 351W.

Wanted less weight and efficient, quality made cooling. Looks like I dont get all 3. :(

Going to be a bit uoset if I need to go back to brass to get more than 5 months use out of an alum one.
 

Madgyver

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Firebronco alum also then? Since it's already leaking?

My brass radiators all lasted 15 yrs plus.

Yes. It's my last aluminum one. Next one new in box is a copper core. Meant for green77 but if needed sooner then it will be installed in the bronco that needs it.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Here's a couple pics showing how the entire bottom of the radiator is supported and 14 1/2" across the top is supported. No load or stress on the tanks or where a typical rubber mount is located so that makes it even harder to blame mounting on the leak since it doesn't mount there.

Ordered Wednesday by 5pm PST and it arrived today, Friday afternoon, that's service! Glad I picked this universal fit radiator since the core and tanks are the same as all their other radiators it's just that there isn't any mounts welded on and that's why the custom ones cost double but they are usually in stock at Summit, Jegs, and Griffin.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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1st pic is the old rad. Appr 1" up from the bottom corner where the tube meets the header is where it leaked.

At the bottom of the 2nd pic next to the fan shroud shows the mount that suppotts the entire bottom of the radiator


3rd pic shows the top. There is a plate that is 14 1/2" across the top that supports/holds the radiator in place.

The two machine screws go through the flanges and keep the radiator from moving side to side.


The lower bracket is bolted in so it can be easily moved if needed. Upper mounts were purposely made as tabs so any replacement down the road could easily be remounted
 

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TAC71

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Hey Brian. I built my own aluminum rad 15 years ago and have had no issues, so aluminum rads can live.

You have seen my rad setup. My bottom saddles are under the tanks, not the core. My top mounts are over the top of the core right at the tanks. My rad support is tubular, so not much flex, the top mounts have about a 1/4 inch of play fore / aft to never twist the core. Its allowed to grow lengthwise.


I have seen the issues your having with aftermarket aluminum rads. Any kind of flex, stiffness stress transferred into the rad from mounting can be a problem. I believe the top of the rad should not be held tightly, its gotta float. I also think the expansion/ contraction pushes the tubes into the header flexing the header plate. Most factory aluminum rads do not have the core side frames attached to the tanks or they have a gap in the frame to allow for core movement from heat. I used a new factory core cut down a bit to my size and the frames have the gaps. I siliconed on my frame covers to not be rigid.

I have a second set of parts ready to weld together if I ever needed them. They are very dusty after 15 years on the shelf. LOL
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Thanks Gary.

Maybe I'll put softer foam in the top so it can "float" better. Other than that I modeled my mounting after what you did as I did not want to mount to the tank seam (where stock EB radiator mounts are).

Hope this works. If we are EVER allowed to cross the border and come home again, I'll be driving it to see ya.
 

TAC71

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The whole bottom of my end tanks, about 3x2 inch is sitting flat in a saddle. Not any part of the core is touching on the bottom. My tanks are fabricated so they are flat with no ridge seam like stock.
 

Madgyver

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i have been thinking of a floating type of radiator mount for a long time. It is probable that could be my issue with my aluminum rads failing. My copper core rad never failed the same way, it only failed when the fan touched it.
 

Yeller

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I too have had good luck with aluminum radiators. Bronco is 9 years (and mounted similar to yours) and and buggy is 16. The one in the buggy the core is bent up 1-1/2” from it becoming the bump stop after a suspension failure jumping it, that was over 10 years ago, still holding and cooling water. I've also done several with welded flanges on the tanks and not had issues, for once I guess I'm lucky on something lol
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I'll look at the top mounts and make sure I am allowing enough movement vertically for the core. The top and bottom mounts each have foam. Lower mount has thicker and denser foam. The core with tanks could move a 1/2" horizontally either way from heat expansion and not have any binding.

I'll never know if the radiator was faulty or if it bound up somehow which I highly doubt but, ... I'll sure check everything out. I'm not restricting horizontal heat expansion at the core to expansion tanks at all, that I know for sure.

But I'm going to check it all out again for sure. Mounting it this way was recommended by the manufacturer when I asked about it. Doesn't mean they understand the stresses we put our radiators thru tho! :)
 
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TAC71

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Jan 28, 2012
Messages
458
The top mounts on mine allow for side to side movement and I can grab the top of the rad and move it front to back about a 1/4 inch. If the rad support did twist it wouldn't take the rad with it.
A finger tip into foam will be soft depending on the density but 12 SQ inches of the same foam is quite stiff.
Just trying to offer some thoughts....
Maybe the rads are junk.....
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Amazing what can transpire in 3 days... well, my Flowkooler WP died also. I mean it's DUMPING water out the weep hole. 2 yrs, 2 mo which for me due to shoulder and other surgery I barely drove for 6 months and 12 months of that time I had FWD only. So if I was comparing to typical driving for me it would have lasted about 8 months. Wow, quality product. This is the same wtrpump that the impeller doesn't clear the timing case unless you stack gaskets or press the impeller on farther.

When I called Flowkooler the tech said and I"m quoting here... "stack 2 or 3 gaskets on there until you can turn the shaft by hand when torqued"... WOW, got some quality control happening here! Since this, I have had at least a 1/2 dozen guys tell me they had the same issue with their Exploder wtr pumps made by Flowkooler. Quality, bar none.

Anyway, I tried a Motorcraft but it has a stamped steel impeller now instead of the ones 20+ yrs ago. Oh well, not many choices for a race inspired Exploder front dress. Mustangs have lots of options like Stewart, Edelbrock, etc, but grocery getter Exploder timing cover has Flowkooler and Mtrcraft- that's about it.

Here's a couple pics... notice the "Made in China" sticker on the last pic. Maybe that's why they look different than ones that came on the rigs in the '90s. Anybody have a pic of an original stock one from the '90's?

Update on 10/10/21 A friend just sent me a pic of a OE Ford Exploder water pump that he is 100% certain it is original from a '96 timing cover and it is EXACTLY the same stamped impellor so I guess Ford didn't change their design or let China change it. :)
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Gary, I ended up using softer foam on the top mount of my radiator to allow easier "movement" vertically or horizontally if needed. :)

I can't believe the radiator was leaking one week and after replacing it, 3 days later my water pump dies... Least it made it through 2 weeks of sand running and driving up and down the Oregon Coast! Didn't leave us stranded anywhere. :)
 
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Yeller

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Have you looked into having an early pump or even you flow cooler remanned? Surely someone does that. Kind of like alternators, a good shop can make an old dead one as good or better than new OEM.
 

DirtDonk

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The reman is a great idea I think. But first have you tried calling flow cooler to see if they still have a warranty? Used to be a lifetime warranty, but even in today's world should still be at least just a couple of years I would think.
Rather than “think” though, I should actually “know”. But I haven't checked lately.

Did you get it from us by any chance? Whoever you bought it from would probably be the best first call. Rather than calling the manufacturer direct at first. Sometimes it ends up being the best method after all, but better to try the reseller first.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Didn't even think about having someone press a new brg on the shaft for the FlowKooler. Heck, I could do that. Puking water... shaft has zero play.

2 yrs and 2 months on it. Warranty is 2 yrs. I can call Summit. They just warranteed a radiator that had 1 year on it, might as well ask but I'm sure they'll say thanks for your business nvrstuk, you've been a loyal customer for 40+ yrs. :)
 

Madgyver

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Didn't even think about having someone press a new brg on the shaft for the FlowKooler. Heck, I could do that. Puking water... shaft has zero play.

2 yrs and 2 months on it. Warranty is 2 yrs. I can call Summit. They just warranteed a radiator that had 1 year on it, might as well ask but I'm sure they'll say thanks for your business nvrstuk, you've been a loyal customer for 40+ yrs. :)
They took back 2 flat tappet comp cams and lifters set that failed break-in, and a couple of distributors, sent me a pair of roller lifters and an intake gasket set, after the stuck roller lifter episode. I should of asked for a tube of right stuff also. That thing is expensive.. What should of took 2 weekends took 2 months. all that time missing MY bronco because Taz was using it.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Geez Mad, that's some terrible luck with bad parts!

I just read 3 other posts while drinking coffee here on CB this am that were all about new parts quality (or better said, lack thereof). :(
 

Madgyver

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Geez Mad, that's some terrible luck with bad parts!

I just read 3 other posts while drinking coffee here on CB this am that were all about new parts quality (or better said, lack thereof). :(
Waiting for shipment of replacement parts sucks but it did give us a break to go fishing and get lucky..
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Least you're making good use of your time !! Nice fish too!
 
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