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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Thx!
Got a loooong list of tidy-ups already written down before it can move. Brakes and a trans cable with my new shifter cable location also.

It's running!
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I am hoping too but it's 1 1/2 pages on a yellow tablet. lol

Got 2 items done yesterday (big ones) & all but 5 knocked out today. Started it again tonight. Cam is so different it won't idle so I'm trying to get hold of my tuner.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I am convincing myself and my checkbook :( that a Holley TermX or ProM is in my future for this Bronco... I hate waiting and not being able to fix something myself... waiting for a tune...

This is also convincing me that a distributor and a good old Qjet on a 6.0 is back in the running for my Shorty build. For a software controller, all injection parts, elect fuel pump, etc for EFI and computer controlled spark I can save thousands by going with a carb and a distributor. Not having to rely and pay for someone else's expertise means a ton and saves a ton. Not like Shorty will be operating off camber. :)

Only been in the shop 10 min today where I averaged about 12hr/day the past few days.
 

ntsqd

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Could spend the time and money to get up to speed on doing the tuning. Just thot that I'd point out the obvious.


Yeah, I know, I'm not helping.



Again.


OTOH, then you could do the little detail tune alterations that take it from 95% to 99%
 

ssray

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Man, you guys have opened a can of worms for me…..Mention of the LS got me to looking at the local pick and pull inventory where I found 36 vehicles that had LS engines. No idea how many if any would have engines left. That brought up questions of how much time and $$$ is involved in swapping in and programming. So a little searching found EFI Live who offer a Tool for programming that runs 450$ with 2 licenses. Then the question becomes how many hundred hours does it take to be able to use it? :eek:
Would be nice to be able to tackle it…no idea how much is involved in using a tuner. I think I’m gonna need counseling….way to much info on this forum. :ROFLMAO:
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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TS, I am seriously looking into it.

I have to have injection on this so I'm looking at ProM as it's
Mass Air. Ka-ching! But you can't beat mass air.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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36???
I need to come visit. Where are ya???
 

ssray

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Only post #1060. :ROFLMAO:

BTW, happened to catch an Engine Masters episode a week back on Motortrend fast tv. Testing a blower on a big block w and w/o intercooler in different configurations and also run on E85 with interesting results. Got some pics of some of the Dyno graphs for future reference. Not so much that I’m into blowers but I wouldn’t mind messing around with turbocharging.


 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Trans shifts in & out when it's in the proper gate- that's huge. Simple, but huge.

Items changed or tweaked during my 9 month wait on Ford Performance and their worthless tech department & warranty. Just jotting down notes of what I did.

- built a new console. Moved the twin stick shifters to the opposite side, cupholders, cut the top off to keep the height correct since I lowered the floors yrs ago and what a mess that made for cable routing, etc. lol (this took forever)

- deleted the arb solenoids that have been so reliable for me since Feb 1987. Why? I don't know but I put manual valves in the console. Hope I like them as I finally powdercoated something and filling the holes wouldn't look good.

- found a new axle seal for 14 bolt axle spindles that are in tough shape because I took my axle in for gears (my shoulder was incapable of doing anything do to surgery) ! It keeps the seal from rotating on the axle spindle by having a part of the seal that seals to the spindle not rotate. Yeah really. Waaay cool. I posted the seal # earlier in the thread. The rest of the seal rotates and seals against itself so if the spindle is beat to heck, you have a seal now that will actually seal. Of course I can't use it because my hubs are customized and the brg is spaced .125" out from the normal location to allow the use of the 4th style/size 14 bolt wheel hub. Even BillaVista only says there are 3 different hubs but I found the 4th one AND it does not interchange with the other hubs unless you space the inner brg outward .125". How I got two of these that even BillaVista doesn't know about ... but they make my rear WMS correct...

- rehung my spare tire mount. Tried heim joints and they sagged worse than the large rubber bushings. This one did not go as planned. lol

- tested my "new" dual ARB compressor again. When I bought it as a returned compressor and quickly connected it to 12V it worked. So I stored it. Well, I needed to replace EVERY moving part on both compressors... works now. Mounted it behind the rear wheel well. Maybe ended up saving $25 over buying a new one with a warranty but I know what the insides look like now! :)

- new master cylinder that will not leak w/o needing 2 hose clamps over the cover. 1.25" bore from a stock HB Chebby truck with JB6 calipers. Will see if I have enough pedal when I test it. Seems fine for the 45' that it's moved when I turned it around.

- pulled the hood and added shims and took away shims, moved fenders and... finally gave up.

- welded up the 1-2" long cracks developing on the top of my frt fenders on the seam where the 3 phillips head bolts hold it in place.

- welded in new braces on my tubed front end

- built new 6r80 to sbf adapters for my use on Shorty. Ended up with 2 production runs. Bit of time here

- fought Ford for 9 months as they denied they over bored my 351W Racing block. Wrong piston bore/hone for the block they sold me. Mahle aknowledged it.

- built my engine after realizing I'll do my best to never deal with Ford Performance ever again.

- found out Ford gear drive mini-starters commonly hang up in the ring gear teeth until the engine fires or starts to release the bendix gear so it's not an issue. The gear reduction in the starter design tends to "bind" (for lack of a better word) and the drive stays engaged in the flexplate-- until it starts or fires some.

- found out the plethora of flexplates on the market today are not even CLOSE to the same even though they advertise they fit different engines/trans. I learned a lot about the extremely poor quality of Performance Automatics flexplates. Non-concentric mounting holes, etc. Not a bash- just fact. Wemt with a Meziere.

- shipped improperly made torque converters back and forth for 2 months till I got 2 that were machined properly and they looked like they had been dragged behind a UPS truck because they were just stuck in a cardboard box that the input shaft poked through and got ruined. Some drama from the company on this one...

- Had Jensen Bros Racing rebuild my ORI struts. I learned they typically last 5 yrs or so before a rebuild is due. I had 7 yrs and when the seals leak they usually hydro-lock.I didn't want this to happen on a trip so they were due. I was going to do this but shaft polishing was necessary. I hope they work better than my first impression yesterday when filling them as they needed so much more nitrogen pressure to achieve the same lift as before. Stiction was supposed to be less, not more. Will see. Jensen promised the moon on the rebuilds... I was happy before, hope these work great.

- Replumed and cleaned up my High School shop project quality plumbing I originally did for my EFI supply and return lines, regulator, etc. It was hanging all over my firewall. It really was ugly before- temporary for 7 yrs or more.

- removed my air manifold, pressure regulator, filter, overpressure switch, solenoids, etc for my ARB and it is now ALL GONE! lol Still have my York there as I will put a pulley to eliminate the need for the York but not right away. You can actually see the firewall now! Might even go AC

- re-routed my 6r80 shifter cable to get it out from underneath the t-case and out of potential harms way. Realized I needed to come in from above the center of the trans and from the front . Built a new lever with the correct geometry and so far it shifts when it's supposed to.

- installed a new pump in my 6r80 and changed the filter while I had it partially disassembled. Got to add another $100 worth of fluid in

That's all I can remember doing when I was waiting for Ford Performance to do the right thing-which they never did. They never replaced my short block but for a couple thou$and buck$ I got to put mine back together with new pistons Ford special ordered from Mahle because of their mistake.

Just a recap.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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SOooo in 5 minutes of idling my header temps are 637. Too hot for me to risk taking it for a drive.

Called my tuner and he thinks it's timing based on his tune last year. I am waiting... I am SOooo ready to be driving my Bronco...

My list of "to-do"s grew to 2 full pages at least (don't they always) lol but I am almost there!

It has fenders!!! It has a hood that can close!! It is soooo close! Can't wait.

Had to dig out my Moates (it has a new battery) :) , remove my F3 chip, hook up the Moates, record a couple minutes of it sitting idling and burping the throttle and sent 2 tunes off to him. This took me a long time remembering how to go through all the details but I'm hoping he can dial it in quick.
 

36Fan

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Messages
250
Its always something, I feel your pain...trust me! haha

Where's the pics and info on the 6r80 adapter you made? I decided to put a 6R into my 96 Bronco, coming up with a parts list now.
 

Madgyver

Contributor
Bronco Madman
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Jul 30, 2001
Messages
14,923
I am convincing myself and my checkbook :( that a Holley TermX or ProM is in my future for this Bronco... I hate waiting and not being able to fix something myself... waiting for a tune...

This is also convincing me that a distributor and a good old Qjet on a 6.0 is back in the running for my Shorty build. For a software controller, all injection parts, elect fuel pump, etc for EFI and computer controlled spark I can save thousands by going with a carb and a distributor. Not having to rely and pay for someone else's expertise means a ton and saves a ton. Not like Shorty will be operating off camber. :)

Only been in the shop 10 min today where I averaged about 12hr/day the past few days.
This is one of my main reasons to stay with the QJet. It works for me.
"Not having to rely and pay for someone else's expertise means a ton and saves a ton."
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

Contributor
Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
Joined
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Messages
9,411
Loc.
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Its always something, I feel your pain...trust me! haha

Where's the pics and info on the 6r80 adapter you made? I decided to put a 6R into my 96 Bronco, coming up with a parts list now.
I'll pm you my addy.

I am using my adapter and it works great. Shortest and now that I've figured out flexplates it's an easy, inexpensive and dependable install.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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I am SOOOooo ready to drive this thing. Completed my 1 1/2page list of 1 full day to 1 hr fixes (and about a dozen more) amd awaiting a new tune that will hopefully drop my header temps at idle from 630+deg F to a more respectable 500 or so.

I am so close to going with ProM mass air so I can do this myself!!!
 

ssray

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I am so close to going with ProM mass air so I can do this myself!!!
It looks like an amazing system….Ive had a bit of time to look through the features of it and it’s got a lot. A lot of racing functions obviously but the flex fuel for ethanol along with the boost control is intriguing. 350$ for the sensor and you could run some E85 for playtime. That along with the boost control would give some serious power. And the boost control is integrated with the ethanol easily. Control is even provided for a manual transmission so you can control based on gear and rpm etc.etc. The no lift shift might be interesting to try in sand or snow. ;)

I have no idea what the tuners charge…would you have paid for one of these by now if you started from scratch? I guessing with the software and hardware, plus experience their time isn’t cheap.

Interesting that the modules are production Ford but totally different code programmed by Ford contractors. Maybe you’d have second thoughts about it. :unsure: I guess you could say it has a Ford ECM in even with an LS. :ROFLMAO:
Scott
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Tuners are a ton less than a whole system but even w/o the tuner you still need 90% of those parts. It's just that the older 89-93 Mass Air stuff is getting harder to find and older so pros & cons like everything.

The ProM system is the best from what we can figure out so far.

Does everything. We don't have e85 around here so that isn't an option.

Boost would be cool but my 464 sb is already 10.25CR. Shorty is about 99% ls powered as anybody on this thread knows I have no loyalty to Ford anymore. :)
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Ahhhhh... been 10 months since it's been outside thank you for that Ford Performance. :(

I got an answer from OutWears pre filters. They filter to .005" and here's a quote:
"The pre-filter is water repellent for splashing or rain. It will not work with a direct hit of water or submerging. As far as particles, the pre-filter material can filter particles down to 0.005". We do recommend that you take them off regularly to shake off any stuck on debris".
So I'll build a splash deflector around it to help keep direct water/sand from hitting the prefilter- that's what I've planned on doing. Just thought one already made that would fit would be nice.

I am getting a longer prefilter so it will wrap around the large dia end better so it will seal tighter there.

Thanks for all the suggestings on filter boxes etc...

The 3x3 hangs out around the barn and property every day. Napping in the shade next to the barn while my daughter pulled within 35' and stopped to take a pic. He just raised his head was all. lol
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I am getting impatient... waiting for the tuner to read my data logs and send a new tune.

So I could rule out an intake leak I shot some ether along the intake ports. No change. Then I

started it back up. 3 min MAX and both sides were well over 630deg F and I went back to the PS header and it was 760deg F. I didn't even check the other 2 tubes on the PS and ran around and shut it down.

AFR was btw 14.3 and 15 at idle.
 
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