Trans shifts in & out when it's in the proper gate- that's huge. Simple, but huge.
Items changed or tweaked during my 9 month wait on Ford Performance and their worthless tech department & warranty. Just jotting down notes of what I did.
- built a new console. Moved the twin stick shifters to the opposite side, cupholders, cut the top off to keep the height correct since I lowered the floors yrs ago and what a mess that made for cable routing, etc. lol (this took forever)
- deleted the arb solenoids that have been so reliable for me since Feb 1987. Why? I don't know but I put manual valves in the console. Hope I like them as I finally powdercoated something and filling the holes wouldn't look good.
- found a new axle seal for 14 bolt axle spindles that are in tough shape because I took my axle in for gears (my shoulder was incapable of doing anything do to surgery) ! It keeps the seal from rotating on the axle spindle by having a part of the seal that seals to the spindle not rotate. Yeah really. Waaay cool. I posted the seal # earlier in the thread. The rest of the seal rotates and seals against itself so if the spindle is beat to heck, you have a seal now that will actually seal. Of course I can't use it because my hubs are customized and the brg is spaced .125" out from the normal location to allow the use of the 4th style/size 14 bolt wheel hub. Even BillaVista only says there are 3 different hubs but I found the 4th one AND it does not interchange with the other hubs unless you space the inner brg outward .125". How I got two of these that even BillaVista doesn't know about ... but they make my rear WMS correct...
- rehung my spare tire mount. Tried heim joints and they sagged worse than the large rubber bushings. This one did not go as planned. lol
- tested my "new" dual ARB compressor again. When I bought it as a returned compressor and quickly connected it to 12V it worked. So I stored it. Well, I needed to replace EVERY moving part on both compressors... works now. Mounted it behind the rear wheel well. Maybe ended up saving $25 over buying a new one with a warranty but I know what the insides look like now!
- new master cylinder that will not leak w/o needing 2 hose clamps over the cover. 1.25" bore from a stock HB Chebby truck with JB6 calipers. Will see if I have enough pedal when I test it. Seems fine for the 45' that it's moved when I turned it around.
- pulled the hood and added shims and took away shims, moved fenders and... finally gave up.
- welded up the 1-2" long cracks developing on the top of my frt fenders on the seam where the 3 phillips head bolts hold it in place.
- welded in new braces on my tubed front end
- built new 6r80 to sbf adapters for my use on Shorty. Ended up with 2 production runs. Bit of time here
- fought Ford for 9 months as they denied they over bored my 351W Racing block. Wrong piston bore/hone for the block they sold me. Mahle aknowledged it.
- built my engine after realizing I'll do my best to never deal with Ford Performance ever again.
- found out Ford gear drive mini-starters commonly hang up in the ring gear teeth until the engine fires or starts to release the bendix gear so it's not an issue. The gear reduction in the starter design tends to "bind" (for lack of a better word) and the drive stays engaged in the flexplate-- until it starts or fires some.
- found out the plethora of flexplates on the market today are not even CLOSE to the same even though they advertise they fit different engines/trans. I learned a lot about the extremely poor quality of Performance Automatics flexplates. Non-concentric mounting holes, etc. Not a bash- just fact. Wemt with a Meziere.
- shipped improperly made torque converters back and forth for 2 months till I got 2 that were machined properly and they looked like they had been dragged behind a UPS truck because they were just stuck in a cardboard box that the input shaft poked through and got ruined. Some drama from the company on this one...
- Had Jensen Bros Racing rebuild my ORI struts. I learned they typically last 5 yrs or so before a rebuild is due. I had 7 yrs and when the seals leak they usually hydro-lock.I didn't want this to happen on a trip so they were due. I was going to do this but shaft polishing was necessary. I hope they work better than my first impression yesterday when filling them as they needed so much more nitrogen pressure to achieve the same lift as before. Stiction was supposed to be less, not more. Will see. Jensen promised the moon on the rebuilds... I was happy before, hope these work great.
- Replumed and cleaned up my High School shop project quality plumbing I originally did for my EFI supply and return lines, regulator, etc. It was hanging all over my firewall. It really was ugly before- temporary for 7 yrs or more.
- removed my air manifold, pressure regulator, filter, overpressure switch, solenoids, etc for my ARB and it is now ALL GONE! lol Still have my York there as I will put a pulley to eliminate the need for the York but not right away. You can actually see the firewall now! Might even go AC
- re-routed my 6r80 shifter cable to get it out from underneath the t-case and out of potential harms way. Realized I needed to come in from above the center of the trans and from the front . Built a new lever with the correct geometry and so far it shifts when it's supposed to.
- installed a new pump in my 6r80 and changed the filter while I had it partially disassembled. Got to add another $100 worth of fluid in
That's all I can remember doing when I was waiting for Ford Performance to do the right thing-which they never did. They never replaced my short block but for a couple thou$and buck$ I got to put mine back together with new pistons Ford special ordered from Mahle because of their mistake.
Just a recap.