4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

[ssray]

Some kind of simple check valve on the oil pick up? He’s not giving up his secret!
A worry about the turbo bearings as they get oil last? At least it wouldn’t normally spin up much on startup.

I do remember some years back a pre-oil pump system that somebody was selling. I can’t remember if it was automatic or manually operated, but it would pump up pressure in the oil passages before you started the engine.

He has a video about cp-4 pump failures as well that’s interesting. I’ve noticed them elsewhere too.

 

[ntsqd]

Maybe a Canton Accusump with one of the electric pressure control valves?

 

[ssray]

Maybe a Canton Accusump with one of the electric pressure control valves?

Yes, that’s possible, I was thinking pump, but it was a long while back and my memory could be flaky. I did see Canton has been around for 30 yrs.

 

[ntsqd]

I dimly recall an OEM electric oil pump for/from something. No idea what. Likely something turbo'd.

 

[nvrstuk]

Some kind of simple check valve on the oil pick up? He’s not giving up his secret!
A worry about the turbo bearings as they get oil last? At least it wouldn’t normally spin up much on startup.

I do remember some years back a pre-oil pump system that somebody was selling. I can’t remember if it was automatic or manually operated, but it would pump up pressure in the oil passages before you started the engine.

He has a video about cp-4 pump failures as well that’s interesting. I’ve noticed them elsewhere too.

Yeah, that C4 pump that Cummins and Ford used... wow, what an expensive fix that would be. I put the "Disaster Avoidance Kit" on this. It keeps the grenaded pump remnants out of the intake and turbo and everywhere else it shouldn't go.

IF I was going to keep this rig I'd check into pre-oiling systems for sure. I am not a happy camper with anything that says "FORD" on it. I need to make a small but styling looking vinyl graphic that states what has happened to me the past 2 yrs...

Ford =
Fix
Or
Repair
Daily... cause that's what I'm doing

 

[nvrstuk]

Well, the second shop says it's more than likely a rod/rod brg.

I got my estimate last Friday. I bought my first house for less than what a 6.7 costs installed.

Can't wait for this streak of engine "luck" to run out... getting kind of spendy.

 

[nvrstuk]

Found the oil test...

https://www.sccoa.com/forums/thread...Jw_eL-aIA8Nc1qHFMA_aem_TnlHgNOSeP54NX_UNBowUw

 

[ntsqd]

Well, that really sucks! No warranty relief I take it?

Interesting read on oil. I'm a little disappointed, and surprised, in where my preferred oil choice was ranked. Still good, but not great. I don't/won't buy Lucas anything. Their early marketing created a Snake Oil impression that I'm not able to suspend.

Link at the top of the first post in that thread is dead. I was hoping to find a similar discussion about low ZDDP content oils.

 

[nvrstuk]

Ford will only warranty the 6.7 for 5 yrs.

Should have bought a Hyundai, they're good for 10yr/100K.

I am so done with Ford... wish I could be done with them but I still own a Triton and when we upgrade after selling the F550, the choices for the RV size we need is almost non- existent except on a Ford chassis for mtrhomes.

 

[ntsqd]

Find a MDT with a DT466 or something like it?

Neighbor two doors down bought a Volvo Class 8 from someone in Ohio who had registered it there as a motorhome. Made it possible to get it into KA as a motorhome. It doesn't recognize his triple axle toy-hauler as even being there. A C8 might be a little over-kill, but I've seen more than a couple MDT's with crew cabs and driven front axles if that's a combo that you need.

 

[nvrstuk]

My needs are becoming more basic. I mean a 42,000 mile 6.7 pwrstroke with a trailer should be pretty basic but not for ME!!

We don't want any mtrhome over 30ft. I want a 6spd so that means '16 or newer. Would like the newer Tritons or would be ok with the Godzilla.

 

[nvrstuk]

If you like to read and can get past the "I'm great" over and over then this engineer confirms that pressure ratings are the key and this engineer doesn't like zinc at all.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/ this test covers all oils

VR1 doesn't make the top 50 oils.

This test (first one) tests only the top 25 extra zinc oils

https://www.sccoa.com/forums/thread...Jw_eL-aIA8Nc1qHFMA_aem_TnlHgNOSeP54NX_UNBowUw


This guy tests and confirms that Walmart sells good oil, not some knock off as he tests the Walmart bottles against the same oil sold at PepBoys for over 50% more money. If I had a Walmart within 100 miles round trip I'd be buying my oil there. $25.99 for 5 qts WalMart. $11.99 qt here in town at Napa So I ordered a years worth on line and now want to go with Quaker State.

 

[ntsqd]

Shorten the WB and off you go? It is an Allison auto though.

2016 INTERNATIONAL DURASTAR 4300 For Sale in Houston, Texas

2016 INTERNATIONAL DURASTAR 4300 For Sale in Houston, Texas at TruckPaper.com. 2016 INTERNATIONAL EXTENDED CAB , CAPTAIN CHAIRS FRONT, AND 2ND ROW BENCH SEAT , *****25,999 LBS GVWR NON CDL CAB AND CHASIS*****, CUMMINS ENGINE, ALLISON AUTO TRANS, HARD TO FIND IT WONT LAST!!!!!!!!

www.truckpaper.com

 

[Yeller]

That would need air ride, and 220hp gets it done but won’t win any races, at times nearly painful.

 

[73azbronco]

Ford will only warranty the 6.7 for 5 yrs.

Should have bought a Hyundai, they're good for 10yr/100K.

I am so done with Ford... wish I could be done with them but I still own a Triton and when we upgrade after selling the F550, the choices for the RV size we need is almost non- existent except on a Ford chassis for mtrhomes.

I had no opinion until I took the e450 class c to alaska this summer, wow, that v10 sings. Not a drop of oil anywhere on that thing at 70,000 miles.

 

[nvrstuk]

What year? Knock on wood, I've had good luck with mine too.

Alaska trip must have been fun. We love BC & the Yukon. Everywhere ya look it's picturesque!

 

[76YETI]

Floor pans are shaped, formed, and fit great but they aren't permanent till all the work under the floor is done...easier access.

Body mount under the seats had to be moved back for the new floor pans so I made a new floor brace (rect tube) crossing the floor and tied it into a rect tube brace that runs at 90 deg towards the dash directly under the center console mounting area. I will have to mount my seat belts to the lowest edge on the side of the console but don't worry, it will have angle iron mounted to the interior of it and the other half of the angle iron will be bolted down thru the floor into this piece of rect tube that is connected to the full width body brace...eventually the belts will be attached to the seat brackets which are attached to the cage.

Spent days moving linkages and other stuff to get the 205 up against the floor. I had the bottom of the 205 above the frame rail but even with the TruHi 9 and extending the WB 4", the driveline at 10" of droop was at 32degrees...

How much time do you think you had in lowering the floors? Any idea. Thanks

 

[nvrstuk]

How much time do you think you had in lowering the floors? Any idea. Thanks

Good question. Cutting them out was quick, 1/2 day-1 day as I didn't replace them all the way to the firewall. Moving the body mounts under the seat wasn't too bad. I had to make the new crossmember and tie it in- half day or more on that.

The new body mounts weren't too bad but they need to be beef and I had to move the stock ones off the frame. Not bad since access was easy w/o a floor.

Welding it all in probably took 2 days since spot welding,fitting, bending sheet metal, short beads, filling small gaps takes a while since I was borrowing a cheapie HF brake that is better than my 6" vice but I'd never buy one for anything except 20ga.

I'd do it again in a heartbeat for the benefits. Few want to take it on but it is SOOOO much nicer in the cab. Easy entry since I'm on 40"s it is super easy to get in. My wife gets in - not as easy but she's a trooper and has been crawling in out of our Bronco since '76.

Remounting seats and console. Seats = 8 holes which is an hour. Console... different story. I tried not cutting it down since it sat at the same mounting height yet we now sat 2" lower and it was killing my wife's arm. Literally black and blue when riding cause of the sharp edges on the Tuffy. I tried some padding and it looked fugly. Just last year (when building my console) I cut it down two inches to match what would be the original mounting height in relation to the seats and the pass sides of it don't need padding anymore (so it won't bruise her forearms up) because the height is correct again.

Exact time??? Can't say. I suppose I could look at the original posts and see stop/start times but I was doing soooo much other stuff and I was starting on average by 6am and quitting about 10-11:30pm, 7 days/week for 5 months with one 2 week break. I left the floors unwelded till after things like noticing the frt driveshaft wasn't even CLOSE to fitting so in went a D60... that was one of the delays. lol

 

[Yeller]

No one wants to know how much time I have in mine.... maybe 4 hours, that would be a stretch. I did it in one evening afterwork. I don't think I had drivetrain, wiring, plumbing or a bronco frame in the way so I got to take a lot of short cuts that you can't do with a completed truck. I just knew I wanted them lower and would figure it out. laying the cage out I figured out quickly that I wanted my tail end at the same elevation as the stock floor. I can say it completely changes the feel of driving, feels more stable. I'm 5'11 and look like a little kid driving it. I'm in the passenger seat and the lady driving is about 5'-4".

one of the few pics of it I have with me in a seat.

 

[nvrstuk]

Yeah, you work faster than I do, buddy. lol

People that don't know the story might think someone was at the top of Hell's Revenge... and doing a selfie!

( Looks like Hell's Revenge, but I'm a thousand miles away)