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Engine Swap: Cummins R2.8

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Digger556

Digger556

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What are the dimensions on the core of that unit? I found some varying info in a quick google search - I'm eyeing that plastic ducting around it as a possible candidate for a trans cooler I'm thinking of trying - thanks!

Todd Z.

Core measured 25" wide, 4.5" tall and 2" deep.
 

toddz69

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Good to know. Do they coat the inside? What material is EFI hose made from? Buna or Viton should be okay, but it's not like the manufacturer tells you on the package.

I reused the hose that was in the tank to start with, so hopefully that works.

I can't comment on the construction but the stuff you want for submersion inside a tank is SAE-30R10 rated. Regular EFI hose is SAE-30R9.

Todd Z.
 

Broncobowsher

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Good to know. Do they coat the inside? What material is EFI hose made from? Buna or Viton should be okay, but it's not like the manufacturer tells you on the package.

I reused the hose that was in the tank to start with, so hopefully that works.

Todd already filled you in on most of it. I saved a link to some that I almost used once (went all hard line in the tank instead) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R5XX5...olid=3DVD74QT1158V&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I heard about it when people replaced an in-tank pump and later it died. cycle the pump and you hear it run, but there is no fuel pressure. Sometimes you can even hear the splash of fuel from the broke hose in the tank. Come to find out there is a special hose for use in the tank.
 
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Digger556

Digger556

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Good information, thanks guys!

I'll double check the hose later and switch it if necessary.
 

ntsqd

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Might check that the 30R10 hose is rated for diesel too if someone doesn't already know. I can tell you that a month long submersion test of Aeroquip FC332 hose revealed no change in either gasoline or diesel (I used it inside a 55 gallon fuel supply drum on a dyno), but fuel oils can have a different effect on polymers than gasoline.
 
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Digger556

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Any updates?

Slowly, but yes.

I looked at a few options, but circled back to the '94 Explorer radiator I had laying around. To fit it up, the stock radiator mounts needed to go, so I drilled out the spot welds.
49432693056_62b98cf9ff_o.jpg

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My new intercooler showed up, this one fits a Focus or Escape Ecobost 2.0T. (I stayed away from the V50 intercooler for now) It's slightly smaller than the RS intercooler, but looks very similar and meets the specs for hose size and frontal area. It still looked like a pretty tight fit, so I did a lot of eye-balling before cutting any sheetmetal.
49432693021_29dc3e7dc9_o.jpg



My intention was to relocate the battery to the drivers' side to accommodate the cable run to the Cummins's starter and put the air box on the passenger's side close to the turbo intake. It didn't take long to realize that the intercooler needed to be shifted off-center and the battery kept in the OE location. The air box will require a different solution.
49432693006_62257d0db8_o.jpg



Even shifted 3" off-center, the intercooler barely clears the battery.
49432917097_d2c5fba2a5_o.jpg



In a weird twist of fate, The off-setting of the intercooler and its width exactly fit between the uprights of the core support.
49432692971_4f42172597_o.jpg

49432917062_b6dc712cfa_o.jpg
 
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Digger556

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After marking an outline on the core support, I grabbed my jig saw and held my breath. 20 minutes of cutting and I was able to slip the CAC (intercooler) in place.
49432215293_4d465d60d7_o.jpg




The top of the window I cut lined up with the top of the radiator hole. The safety latch catch hangs down slightly and will be removed later.
49432215268_0b6a4cc744_o.jpg



I tried to keep the hole tight to the CAC.
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Sliding the CAC into place revealed how little room there is between the core support and the grill. To fit things in place, I needed to remove the hood latch and driver's turn signal. I figured the hood latch would need to be modified to a cable pull type. As it turned out, the whole mechanism will need to be moved elsewhere. I plan to switch to a dual latch system positions at the hood corners. The turn signal wiring and housing interfere with the CAC. The best idea I have so far is converting to LEDs and a modified the housing to be lower profile.
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Next I dropped the radiator in place.
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Digger556

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So now I have a bit of a problem. I don't have a good place for the air cleaner anymore. The most logical choice at this point, is on the passenger's fender. I don't want to run an open element filter sucking hot underhood air. Besides being less than ideal, the engine will actually throw a code if the intake temps get too high.

I looked at just about every Donaldson filter assembly that met the flow requirements. I haven't found an OE filter box that will fit. I'm down to custom building an air box, but I'm not sure where to pull air from. The cowl vent is one choice, the other is installing a mini snorkel and pull air through the fender.

I don't want to give up the cowl vent feeding fresh air to the passenger compartment.

At this point, I'm open to ideas.


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surfer-b

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Great looking build, how about using the cavity between the inner and out fender well for the air cleaner, you could fab a box that would fit between the 2 and pipe it in, also you could cover the fender wells with a skirt something like this
 

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Yeller

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Have you thought about make a box on top of the inner fender and drawing air through the stock tube that goes behind the battery? I did that on a swap that I recently did, I’d share a pic but promised I wouldn’t, owner wants to do his own reveal. Came out real simple 4 screws and the cover comes off for filter service but is shielded from heat and splashed debris.
 

TX SS

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Have you thought about make a box on top of the inner fender and drawing air through the stock tube that goes behind the battery? I did that on a swap that I recently did, I’d share a pic but promised I wouldn’t, owner wants to do his own reveal. Came out real simple 4 screws and the cover comes off for filter service but is shielded from heat and splashed debris.

I'll share the pics for you Steve ;D
 

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toddz69

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Have you thought about make a box on top of the inner fender and drawing air through the stock tube that goes behind the battery? I did that on a swap that I recently did, I’d share a pic but promised I wouldn’t, owner wants to do his own reveal. Came out real simple 4 screws and the cover comes off for filter service but is shielded from heat and splashed debris.

That’s exactly what I’ve had in mind for a cold air intake on my 5.0 for many years but have never gotten around to it. I even scrounged up a nice intake tube and flex hose to install. It’s a little more challenging for those of us with pre-73 trucks since we didn’t originally have that tube and the corresponding hole in the core support.

Todd Z.
 
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Digger556

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Have you thought about make a box on top of the inner fender and drawing air through the stock tube that goes behind the battery? I did that on a swap that I recently did, I’d share a pic but promised I wouldn’t, owner wants to do his own reveal. Came out real simple 4 screws and the cover comes off for filter service but is shielded from heat and splashed debris.

That's exactly what I hope to do. If I use the fender space I have available and the space between the fender and firewall, I will probably end up with a L-shape air box.

I'm thinking draw air from the passenger cowl vent, channel it down into the air box, air makes a 180 degree turn in the box to toss any loose dirt or moisture, then travel up to the air filter before entering the turbo.

49437554311_2bf1e14a7c_o.jpg




Anyone seen a Bronco with a stumpy snorkel pre-cleaner like this?
river-raider-fj-cruiser-snorkel.jpg
 

ntsqd

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A note of caution if you're planning to share the PS air vent with both induction air and vent air. MISF ducted intake air to the cowl plenum on his Scout II, which is common to both the DS & PS vents. Opening either brings induction noise into the cab. A lot of it.
As an added bonus, being that he's stuck in the Carb era he also gets fuel smell once in a while.

I see the baffle in the dwg above and I suspect that's not enough.
 
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Digger556

Digger556

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A note of caution if you're planning to share the PS air vent with both induction air and vent air. MISF ducted intake air to the cowl plenum on his Scout II, which is common to both the DS & PS vents. Opening either brings induction noise into the cab. A lot of it.
As an added bonus, being that he's stuck in the Carb era he also gets fuel smell once in a while.

I see the baffle in the dwg above and I suspect that's not enough.

Agreed. I could hear a lot of intake noise with the 351's open air cleaner and hood scoop.

A separate short precleaner is probably the way to go.
 

Broncobowsher

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Anyone seen a Bronco with a stumpy snorkel pre-cleaner like this?
river-raider-fj-cruiser-snorkel.jpg
Won't work on a Bronco. There is no cowl for it to live. Hood goes all the way to the windshield. You would have to have it outside the hoodline which would put it outside the body ripe for damage. And it would look like crap. A skinny snorkel already looks out of place enough.
 

ntsqd

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I'd look at printing an enclosure for a panel filter. Design it to sit on the pass fender liner's flat top. Can duct to the core support whether it has the OEM hole(s) or not as they're not that hard to create. Maybe that duct needs to be printed too.
 
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Digger556

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I'm going back to the idea of using a Donaldson filter assembly and now moving both batteries under the truck. I'll post more on that as it progresses.

Lately I've been trying to figure out a hood latch solution without success, but I'm working at that as well. It the mean time, I need to get brackets cut for the CAC and radiator mounts. The CAC needs a more involved solution to keep it isolated from the core support. I made some upgrades to my CAD computer which ate a few evenings and a weekend. She is rocking a fresh copy of Win10 Pro, 32 Gb of ram, a new graphics card and a 500 Gb SSD now. With the computer back up, I spent a few weeks making updates to the Bronco model. I saved off and modified a copy of the core support to reflect the giant hole I cut in it. This week I modeled up the CAC and added it to the model. Next I will be able to design out the brackets and isolators. This thing has a really goofy mounting arrangement, however I have an idea to mount it cleanly to the core support.

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