4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

[nvrstuk]

Here's a pic of the 2" x 2" gussett btw the upper heim ends. I'll get another pic of it welded up

 

[nvrstuk]

I measured both yokes and they are identical... I'll pull the yoke and measure the seal which roughly measured at 2.330??

 

[nvrstuk]

Here's a pic of the 2" x 2" gussett btw the upper heim ends. I'll get another pic of it welded up

 

[nvrstuk]

Doubt this number is any good ...#710608

No markings on the seal itself, just on the rubber sealing lip...weird.

There is a least a .100" gap between the seal surface and the pinion yoke.

What number do you recall for the seal ?

Back to work...

 

[nvrstuk]

So just got back from my trip to napa... hours wasted with the seal being the wrong size.

I don't know what the guy did but it is not a 14 bolt pinion seal.

The OD is OK but the ID is off as you will see from the picks so I got the correct one in town... lucky I even noticed this... guess that's a good thing but what else is wrong with the rear end???

 

[nvrstuk]

Pinion guard back on and bolted up to the mini truss. New forged 1350 ujoint style yoke and seal are in. Need to order a new pinion nut since this one's been on/off now.

Finish slathering antisieze on the last set of misalignment ends and bolts then all that's left is aligning and welding the caliper brackets in place. I'll do that when the brakes are bled and I can clamp the rotors and have them line up properly with the calipers.

Pulling the trans again today lol and having a guy I know machine a billet slug, TIG it on and then turn it down.

I am looking into the custom converter this AM.

 

[79INA69]

You may have had a late model aam 14b seal for the 11.25 ring gear housing?
Question: Did you have trouble removing the pinion nut off the 14b pinion? They are set to over 400ftlbs sometimes. I used the press to crush the preload spacer and still had to use a 3/4" torque wrench that went to 650ftlbs to tighten it down to the right preload. Did you shorten the height of the upper batwing? What did you end up with as far as upper and lower spread?

 

[79INA69]

edit: im guessing you had shim stack to replace the crush. I will def be using shims next time

 

[Yeller]

edit: im guessing you had shim stack to replace the crush. I will def be using shims next time

as long as the preload is correct before removing the nut, there is no issue just replacing the seal and reinstalling the yolk and nut, just don't over tighten the nut and increase the preload. On a 14 bolt I have yet to find and impact under 1" that will crush the crush sleeve, they are a beast. For me, always requires a 20 ton minimum press and a good impact worked together in stages.

JK D44's are a different story, i think they make those out of rubber, scary easy to crush those.

 

[nvrstuk]

"JK D44's are a different story, i think they make those out of rubber, scary easy to crush those."... we could all kinds of fun making comments on this! lol

Yeah, shim stack so I could get in there and not mess the preload up. I"m guessing 150ftlbs on the pinion nut. I'll do some more looking but having trouble finding a torque amt for it... ??

Anyway, fuel line that for 25 years exited the frame on the bottom of the rail directly above the axle of all places has been moved, frame has been hacked and repaired with a pc welded on the outside to cover the hole instead of flush. Main reason for this was so if I ever need to get into the frame again and replace the fuel line I can cut this pc off with a cutoff wheel then have better access to remove/replace the line. I have fuel hose slid over most of the fuel line (brake line) to keep any potential contact spots from wearing. Been running it like this for close to 20 yrs now.

Brake part inventory and layout tonight... drivelines should be here by Friday for mockup and angle testing. I'm thinking I will probably need a limiter for the front ...dang it. Maybe one inch...will see.

Friend is picking up my converter within an hour and he will make a 1/2" long button, TIG it on the TC and turn it true. I call Rev?? about converters this am- no luck but they did say do NOT run the TC unsupported and that adding a 1/2" was probably my best option.

 

[nvrstuk]

You may have had a late model aam 14b seal for the 11.25 ring gear housing?
Question: Did you have trouble removing the pinion nut off the 14b pinion? They are set to over 400ftlbs sometimes. I used the press to crush the preload spacer and still had to use a 3/4" torque wrench that went to 650ftlbs to tighten it down to the right preload. Did you shorten the height of the upper batwing? What did you end up with as far as upper and lower spread?

I am guessing that's the seal I got...no idea but it wasn't close...

I used a 5' cheater on my 3/4" socket set drive bar and barely pushed on it, I mean barely to loosen the pinion nut. So I climbed under the rig and proceeded to attempt to turn the drive bar one handed... ;D that didn't work so I climbed back out (climb under and out 100x/day min) and gently pushed the cheater for several rotations till I could rotate it one handed underneath. Wuss! lol

The upper link mount is exactly the same as my "914" setup that I ran for several years. Essentially without measuring ( I can go get numbers if you'd like) I have the upper heims within a 1/2" of each other and the lowers are out to within 1/4" of the caliper brackets.

42 1/2" from inner edge of each lower link bracket to bracket is the distance.
Another advantage of not using the C&C hubs I was able to mount the lower links almost 3+ inches wider. With narrow Broncos the more triangulation you can get the better.

 

[Yeller]

150-250 is sufficient, the crush sleeve is probably closer to 600 to get it crushed. Run it on with an impact and call it good

 

[nvrstuk]

Consider it done!

Just sent my convertor off. Should have it Thursday night. So I'll have lots of small stuff to do before then...

 

[nvrstuk]

Here's the TC snout that's about to be lengthened by .563"

Here I am peeling the frame apart again... lol

Had to move the fuel supply line from the tank a tad bit more out of the way. The way the 3-5" thick chunks of ice rip crap (like fuel pumps) off our frames I don't like anything mounted on the frame rails so it wont get ripped violently.

So the fuel line exiting the bottom of the frame rail was too low for the new 14 bolt (wide rear). So with the help of the sawzall, small die grinder I whacked a hole in it. I patched it with a pc that does not sit flush so if I need to replace the fuel line in the future I can easily remove this pc and get better access.

 

[Yeller]

Doing the right thing on the converter, your guy was right, never run one unsupported, it never ends well for the pump bushing, pump or converter. with that "other" engine/trans swap i have a hole box full of the spacers to extend the crank snout to reach the converter.

 

[79INA69]

I figured crush sleeve eliminator. I was referring to the spread between your upper link tower and your lower links. I only have a 1" BL and I plan to relief cut my floor to clear my upper tower to get another 2" of stuff. I have 10-11" spread currently. It looks like you have a 4" BL, Im sure you don't though

 

[nvrstuk]

3" body lift. Room for not stuffing my struts through the hood. Room for a SuperVic with big elbow and MAF, etc

Suspension lift is only 2 1/2" so I can tell my self I've got the equiv of the most common 3.5" sups and 2" body lift.

I'll go measure for ya. Think I'm about 9".
Easy!

 

[nvrstuk]

Oops...forgot to measure...just got frustrated not locating a single fitting I needed within 50 miles of my house...or 4 days shipping... oh well, it's not a John Deere so it's not a priority during Timothy hay season around here! lol

Did make some progress on the snout extension... will TIG it on tomorrow and then turn it down Thursday...

Looks like the tolerance between the crank ID and the snout is .001"...hoping I can slide the converter in with only .001" between them.

 

[nvrstuk]

WTH?????

Anybody that's seen my rig know's I'm not a perfectionist BUT am a "do it right" guy and I am 100% function over "pretty". So with that, the ONE thing I've hired out and as I'm torquing the pinion nut down I keep checking the in lbs or rotation torque on the brgs...well, they shouldn't change because I had the guy use shims, NOT a crush sleeve so if I cranked it down with 25#'s of torque or 250# ft lbs the rotation force should be the same...well, it's not...

WTH?

So, I will call him on the hour tomorrow (I've called yesterday and today- no returned calls) until he calls me back... He obviously didn't set the pinion shim pack correctly because it should not change with a bit of extra torque...

Grrr... other than that I got the boat tuned up and ready for the summer....

 

[Yeller]

I’m with you. Hate fixing stuff you paid to have done, makes that guy no one likes come flowing to the surface .....