4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

[Yeller]

79ina69, if you were wanting more info here’s some on my weird little truck. I need to do something to it so I can make an update, been a while lol
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242196

 

[79INA69]

Appreciate it, I'll check it out. As you were Brian

 

[nvrstuk]

Waited 3 days for an overnight 3AN flex hose off my upper link... 3 days. Shipment for my local NAPA got lost...with my stuff on it. lol

I borrowed this brake flare tool 3 yrs back when I did my build then and I only needed one flare and it was under the rig but I made a "portable vice" work out pretty well (6' bar clamp) so I could get a beautiful flare. Wow... I need one of these..

 

[nvrstuk]

Brake lines are finally all done. Mtrhome is packed. Got a buddy staying here- doesn't even work so he's here the entire time. Gone for a week! YAAAY

Anyway, my snout extension on the converter button works!
Trans slid in flush w/o any effort. TC studs still have appr. .063" before butting up against the mounting pads.

I think this is the key... toss the POS Perf Auto $100 TC adapter kit in the garbage can...

Trans is in, Tcase is in. New rear crossmember that barely snakes around the 1350 flange on the frt of the Atlas goes in... there is one bolt that I almost gave up on... 15 minutes to even start it on the threads.... seriously. Atlas adapter to Atlas bolt when looking from the rear of the Atlas as in the 6:30pm position.

On the bottom bolt slightly over to the DS the adapter is made such that one finger is all that fits on it. Hard to start a bolt with one finger when it's bent at two different angles JUST to be able to touch the head of the bolt... wow... once I got a thread or two started I could get one sixteenth of a turn with the wrench for rotation but it eventually got in...tight.

Here's a hard to see pic but in the center you can see the snout extension on the left and the shiny vertical line is the front edge of the crank pilot hole opening. Snout extension was made 9/16" long and the depth of the crank bushing "hole" is appr 13/16" so I should btw an 1/8" - 1/4" before it bottoms out.

Whew...was beginning to wonder if I'd have to buy a custom made TC... sure didn't want to.

Click on the 2nd pic and notice that the TC is on the left and flexplate on the right snout is coming in from the left and is very close to contacting the end of the crank.

 

[nvrstuk]

Has anybody else dealt with Performance Auto for adapting a 6r80 to a SBF?

I've never bashed a vendor and I'm not bashing here, but I am letting people know (I've talked with PA about this) what they are and aren't getting for $600 plus $100 for the two different adapters... these pieces are a minimum of work, thought and effort. I've called and asked why...they don't seem to care. They are selling 4 threaded studs and a crank adapter that doesn't fit for $100 bucks...take the money and RUN!! lol

Here's the biggest issues I've found:

1- the crank adapter doesn't fit so the snout of the TC would be unsupported and they say if it doesnt fit, run it unsupported. Update 7/30/20- I now have personally talked with 4 EB owners that the bushing would not fit. How can it fit for some Broncos (assuming it must but I don't know of a single one where it does) and not for others IF all the F150 TC's and 6r80's from 2013-2019 are the same??

2- the stud adapters fit fine its just that the nuts they supply to fit on them are metric threads and the threads on the studs protruding thru the flexplate are 3/8" x 24... even tho the original F150 TC threads are metric

3‐ the directions show pictures of parts they say on the back page not to use (update the pics)

4- the block to bellhousing pcs have metric and SAE threads for bellhousing bolts within an inch of each other WTH? Tap it SAE... nobody who wrenches would do this. Too easy to missthread and why??? One of the bolts is allen head, several are 3/8" and the top two are stock 7/16"

5- the 2 pc adapter leaves an opening the width of the adapter x 5" long at the top.. why? for literally $600 plus dollars they couldnt supply a pc of poly or something to fill the hole? Not affecting structural integrity, just CHEAP looking and a catch all for whatever drops down in there and then bouncing around off the converter and flexplate and probably out the side of the bellhousing

6- not as big an issue but there isn't any sheetmetal shield between the oil pan and in front on the flexplate to keep sand and crap (mud, etc) from getting spun all around with the starter ring gear and converter.

Postitive- they answer the phone quickly when you call, polite and courteous

 

[nvrstuk]

Brakes are bled. Great pedal, no fade but with HB, I can't get enough rear caliper pressure to hold my calipers and brackets in place to weld them in... hassle. Need to get rid of HB so I don't have to rely on 9' of hose, pwr strg pump, and engine running to have brakes! Can't start the engine right now so I guess welding the brackets on will be the last thing I do!

Love to have a dual mc/ single pedal setup... doing my homework on the possibility. 10:1 pedal, dual 1" bore mc's. I will have to build my own pedal since the only one I know of is Wilwood and it's all alum. I can't place the pedal where I want w/o pretty much building a new swing arm. I can only modify a steel one so I guess I build a steel pedal arm to go with it.

Anyway, very slow going. Can't lift, push, pull 10#'s or more according to surgeon. Not just one arm this time so I can mark all my bolts and have my buddy torque stuff...

Just want to drive my Bronco again!!

 

[nvrstuk]

Baby steps... so I am looking at checking off small stuff. Least I'm out there!

Today I got a new and improved oil catch can installed. Old one was a cheapie HF filter and it was waiting to fail on the trail.

Started working on my shifter linkage... I knew it would be tight but wow, I should have a 1/4" clearance between my 6r80 linkage and my 1350 DS. This after I "kinda shifted" the t-case a 1/4" to the PS. I'll get a pic after I get someone to lift my DS into place for me.

 

[sprdv1]

Hang in there man. Even the small stuff checked off the list Is a good thing

 

[Yeller]

You’ll get there Brian. Be diligent and listen to the doc, take the time to heal. In time you’ll be good as new can be and the frustration of theses times will melt away. Can’t wait to see it done, it will happen

 

[nvrstuk]

Thanks for the encouraging words. Slooow and steady...not my usual pace! lol

 

[Yeller]

If it wasn’t a 30 hour drive I’d run over and give you a hand

 

[nvrstuk]

Thanks!

 

[nvrstuk]

My daugther rotated the crank over with a socket/ratchet while I torqued the 4 converter nuts. YEAH!! lol

Got about 90% of my shifter mod's done. Have to install the 1st gear block out on my Winters so I will have P, R, N, D, M.
M = Manual. So when I'm cruising I'll be in D and when I want to "bumpshift" meaning manually shifting it electronically, all I have to do is pull it into "M" and bump the shifter to the left for downshift and to the right for upshift.

Here's some pics...

 

[nvrstuk]

My Winters shifter has been used hard for long time. I shift it enough that the shifter lever was almost cut thru from hitting all the gates and there was about 1/8" left before being cut in two. So they sent me a hardened, threaded shifter rod...

I hope to test this out for a bit and if I like it I'll order the more user friendly Winters with the rounded gates. It also has a positive lockout for Rev and for Park. It allows a quick shift into reverse if needed out on the trail. Hopefully I can modify it so I can use the bumpshift IN the shifter itself. I would like to not have a separate 6 pole DPDT located off to the side of the shifter.

I don't want to have to LOOK for the "manual shifter" switch when/if I'm in a hurry.

 

[.94 OR]

That "Manual" option should be sweet.

 

[Yeller]

We found in the u4 car that we couldn’t out shift the computer in a drag race but was awesome maintaining gear selection in technical areas.

 

[nvrstuk]

That's what I've found too Steve. My 10 spd shifts so much faster and at the proper rpms compared to me trying to shuft manually. I'm sure with more practice I'd get better but not nearly as fast and efficient as the computer.

Cool thing is we can see the terrain ahead so we can anticipate and either bump it into manual and we could then hold it or bump it down/up whereas the computer would shift for exactly what it senses at the momement...not the sand wash up ahead that needs 4th gear not 5th

 

[nvrstuk]

I fabbed up the UGLIEST shifter mount one could imagine! lol All I want to do is see if the Winters gate type shifter with the microswitches installed inside works the way way I want it to... OR... I end up looking at a couple different options... even a stock F150 shifter stolen out of an F150... main thing is I need to be able to lock out PARK so when/if I need to slam it into reverse to keep from going over backwards I can't accidently hit Park. Even if I need to slide a pin in for wheeling...

Not sure I want to show everyone the shifter mount from Junior High Shop Class...

I am running my 1/2" ID trans lines today HUGE, I'll post a pic to show the difference btw 3/8" and 1/2" hose... I made several small hangers to make sure the hose doesn't move around. I also slid hose over the outside of the trans hose wherever it touched metal.

I hate breakdowns even tho they can happen to the best built rig. But there's a lot you can do to not cut your trip short-and I'm into that... so I put 3 heat blocking spark plug boots over the hose where it's appr 6" from my 3" exhaust. The 460 creates a BIG bonfire inside each cylinder and I've noticed it puts out a LOT more heat than my 418 ever did. Another 125 HP is a lot more fuel buned in the cylinders.

I'll get some pics up later tonight.

 

[nvrstuk]

Should have my USShift controller with a basic tune on it ready to go tomorrow. Set the TPS on it and then when the correct O2 sensor makes it hopefully I can crank it up, fill the trans the rest of the way with oil (the 6r80 doesnt come with a trans dipstick )!

 

[nvrstuk]

The pic that doesn't make any sense (3rd one above) shows how close (1/8") the top of my 6r is to the twin stick shifter sitting on top of the tunnel. That's with almost a 3" body lift.