4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

[nvrstuk]

Griffin shipped me an auto radiator instead of a manual.

So why can't I then use the cooler in the radiator to cool my p/s fluid? Yes, it will raise the temp of my synthetic fluid to 195F but it won't ever get any hotter. It will be SUPER handy not having to mount my little Hayden stacked plate cooler somewhere up front.

Why wouldn't it work just fine?

Tubing for mounting fenders and radiator is tacked in place. Bottom mount for the radiator is painted (love to paint cars, hate to paint car parts- just takes too much time).

What brand/type of black industrial type field serviceable hose do you use for power steering? I have been using Ryco Avenger T16 series with field serviceable fittings.

This stuff is rated for backhoe use but I can't find it anywhere on line. Won't use braided SS as it has terrible abrasion resistance compared to the black rubber type hose.

 

[nvrstuk]

Modifying my park/blinker buckets so I'll have more room to mount my SD tranny cooler. Kept the stock bolt pattern in case 20 yrs from now I need new replacement parking lights!

 

[Yeller]

I think ryco got absorbed by Parker. Parker has some good quality field serviceable products. As for steering through the radiator in my opinion 195 is too hot but it doesn’t take much to cool. Do you have a spot to add this to a frame rail or tube some where. These are very robust and will take hits from debris. Mine is on the frame and my coil spring tried to rip it off and is working perfectly.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mr-Gasket-7365G-Dual-Pass-Aluminum-Transmission-Cooler-12-Inch,288389.html

I’d be more willing to use it as a conditioner for the transmission if the fittings are large enough. Your 6spd will be happiest at 200 all the time. Otherwise Ford wouldn’t be heating it up to 200

 

[nvrstuk]

I think I'll pass on preheating my ps fluid in the radiator...just looked so "handy"! lol

For decades I've used my little stacked plate Earl's cooler w/o issue. Always found a home for it, I can stuff it somewhere up front. I had one of the finned tube coolers like you linked but couldn't find the space for that exact cooler years ago and went with the small stacked plate one.

I've been wondering about bringing my 6r temp up... at least to 140F or more. lol If I run it thru my SD cooler than "condition it" thru my radiator I should be good. Just don't want to add any heat to my coolant. Should be fine with dual 1 1/4" tubes in a radiator 33% larger than OE but I won't know till the trails at Moab... and I would HATE to be THAT guy, the one that holds everybody up because he didn't test his rig, do the proper maintenance before going wheeling. Don't want to be "that guy".

If the tranny warms my engine coolant up too much I can go back to my never too warm dual cooler setup that worked so well with the 4r. Never got over 160F and I've been known to work it under load.
Thanks Steve!

 

[nvrstuk]

Seem to be making a little progress.

Bottom rad mt is fabbed up and installed. The brkt it attaches to will ne welded at 90deg if I go to an electric brushless fan or lean at 4deg like the face of the engine if I go back with a mech Exploder fan.

 

[nvrstuk]

Hood closes!! That's huge! lol

Guess the body lift ain't going away anytime soon!

 

[nvrstuk]

Pulled the 4x4x4 box apart yesterday and am changing it back to a 4x4x2 box and re-porting it in different spot. Redhead yrs ago rebuilt the box as the top flange plate that holds the sector shaft in place was actually cracked so I sent it to them. They installed over-sized recirc balls in it and THAT is what fixed the wandering problem it always had. "Rebuilt" by a reputable place in Texas (not the one that has a terrible reputation) & it's worked great. I had them port it since they were pulling it apart and the spot on the outside of the box was dangerously close to the tire on hard right turn. Now with the box moved forward I have to relocate that port.

Going to port thru the cap on the top of the box. Lots of meat to tap, out of the way...

You can see why I'm not tapping thru the widest spot btw the o-ring and the center becaise of the dimple in the casting.

 

[nvrstuk]

Checked some big items off the list today...

 

[nvrstuk]

Spent a long time trying to rotate the little ps cooler 90 deg to get more air flow or find a different place for it. Not gonna happen. lol Least I could mount it there and have the reservoir higher. Still have to mount the ps reservoir next to it.

Barely squeezed in the tubing clamp fittings so I could remove the front cross hoop. Really wanted to make this work so I could get easier access to the tranny cooler.

The radiator cooler only has 3/8" ports for the trans. Thought since it had the cooler built in I might use it to bring the 6r trans temp up some. Can't use it since every tech article on the 6r says to make sure you use the OE spec'd 1/2" spec'd diameter lines.

What's with all the aftermarket radiator builders making their radiators unable to be used with newer transmisions that require 1/2" ports? Seems odd they haven't stepped up yet.

 

[sprdv1]

Busy man.... looking good

Checked some big items off the list today...

Spent an hour trying to rotate the little ps cooler 90 deg to get more air flow. Not gonna happen. lol Least I could mount it there and have the reservoir higher. Still have to mount the ps reservoir next to it.

Barely squeezed in the tubing clamp fittings so I could remove the front cross hoop. Really wanted to make this work so I could get easier access to the tranny cooler.

The radiator cooler only has 3/8" ports for the trans. Thought since it had the cooler built in I might use it to bring the temp up some. Can't use it.

What's with all the aftermarket radiator builders making their radiators unable to be used with newer transmisions that require 1/2" ports? Seems odd they haven't stepped up yet.

 

[nvrstuk]

Thanks!

I called Griffin this am on the way to shoulder PT and they explained for any 1/2" NPT inlet for a tranny cooler in a radiator it would be custom. I nicely mentioned that all new 6 spd and up trannys... Ford and Chevy require 1/2" ports so if they want to market to the Hot Rod market they might want to look into that... she wasn't excited to hear that and said they can custom build me one... Almost double the price. Oh well, in 5 yrs they'll be doing it. lol

 

[ssray]

Thanks!

I called Griffin this am on the way to shoulder PT and they explained for any 1/2" NPT inlet for a tranny cooler in a radiator it would be custom. I nicely mentioned that all new 6 spd and up trannys... Ford and Chevy require 1/2" ports so if they want to market to the Hot Rod market they might want to look into that... she wasn't excited to hear that and said they can custom build me one... Almost double the price. Oh well, in 5 yrs they'll be doing it. lol

So I’m just guessing the internals aren’t big enough even if you could drill out and retap to 1/2”. They probably didn’t leave enough meat for that anyway. Just a thought.

 

[nvrstuk]

That's what I asked them SSRAY. Nope, the internal piping for the tranny fluid isn't large enough either. I did hint strongly that this is something they are going to have to do soon if they want to sell their product to guys running the newer tranny's. Oh well, won't work for me.

 

[nvrstuk]

Well, took about 1/2 day longer than it should but the hood pin brackets are in place. I finally figured out a way to anchor the top of the radiator (almost done). Moving the bottom mount 1/4" and will weld the brkts up solid tomorrow. Then I can bolt in the brackets and have the radiator done.

Then pull the frt clip, weld about 30 joints up, clean it, paint it, bolt the clip on and move on to building a pitman arm and lengthening the drag link.

Then Double D joint mock-up, see if all my column wiring works, clear coat the tilt column, see if the blinkers work!

Then continue the list... got 2 weeks and I have to get the motorhome ready and packed... quit typing and get working!! lol

Ain't ready for spring to sprout... irrigation to set up, dang lawn will probably need mowing in 2 weeks...

 

[nvrstuk]

Wish I had TIG welder access... it's going to take some cutting... lol

 

[Yeller]

Aircraft rivets, super secure and relatively easy to do. Just practice a bit on some scrap first.

Or put it in your pocket and teleport to Oklahoma

 

[nvrstuk]

Exactly right Steve!!

Fit, fit & fitment!
Almost there. Have some trimming so the fan will be 1/2 way in but closer!

 

[nvrstuk]

This could be part of the reason the metal fan pulls more air. Look at the hub dia difference.

 

[nvrstuk]

Quitting early- it's Easter!

Fan shroud needs weatherstripping, one more machine screw at the top, and another upper radiator mount brkt (bit busy but they seem to fit and should work perfect for my tight space. I am pulling this all apart again so I will attend to those details on final install. I need to buy a TIG welder. I Tig welded almost every day at one job decades ago... like riding a bike right?? lol

This radiator to wtr pump spacing is designed for going with a PCM controlled fan off a Caddy or Camaro. Seem to be perfect size and cfm and outflow our favorite Tauras/Mark VIII fans we all use. Wish there was some way to measure flow accurately.

Safari in 2 1/2 weeks...

 

[nvrstuk]

Spent 1/2 day just getting my brkts for my radiator lined up perfect... Too many pieces. Working good, just too many pcs.

Radiator fits perfect, my "new" shroud is even around the Exploder fan blades, the p/s reservoir is hung, I got a couple braces from my fender tubing to the strut towers fit.

IF I could remove the 3 phillips head screws holding the fenders on the clip would come off tomorrow am. Last time I pulled them off was 1986... been pounding on them to no avail. Tried my little hammer drill- nothing. Hate to have to drill them off

Set the preload on the sector shaft... smooth...

Maybe some pics tomorrow. Ice cream time...