4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

[nvrstuk]

NAKED

I thought this close to the Safari that it should be going back together not taking it farther apart??. lol

 

[nvrstuk]

Not much sand left under the heater vent intake under the hood because most of it ended up in my hair and face when I yanked it out! lol

This pic shows how easy the fenders came off.

 

[Yeller]

That sucks. Hate drilling out bolts

 

[ssray]

Washers and the welder can work on flush- broken bolts.

 

[nvrstuk]

Yeah, I used an impact hammer on them (gently) after trying all the things we usually do... I figured BEFORE I broke the bolt off somewhere downn the shank and also leaving a sharp edge I'd use the center of the phillips head to use for starting my drill bit. Worked great. I was worried about grinding/cutting the bolt heads off and not cutting into the sheet metal of the fender in the process. Thought it was worth the effort to do it the long way.

Something to note here was the hardness of the stock bolts used. WOW. I could only drill with an 1/8" cobalt bit for the starter hole- not one type of bit would drill through a bolt that didn't have a starter pilot hole already.

Unless I was moving up in 1/32" increments my high speed drill bits wouldn't cut at all. I was sharpening my drill bit after every every hole. In other words I must have used my drill doctor about 30-40 times resharpening. I tried a couple brand new high speed steel bits (spares I keep) and they didn't work any better.

Anyway, it took a couple hours but the holes are "smack dab" in the middle but I will now use Riv-Nuts to hold the fenders on... and lots of anti-sieze!

 

[ssray]

Wow, something to look forward to... ;( I need to get mine off sometime to fix some rust where the inner and outer join back by the cowl. Not big yet, but will only get worse.

No sieze is da bomb. I use it anytime something goes back together.

Scott

 

[nvrstuk]

STOP...


This is as far as I'm going... I wanted to have time to do my DS floor, kick panel and the door post but - not!

Anyway, I'm tired, my welds look like it but it's solid as heck and I didn't add much weight- least not as much as I would have 10 or 20 yrs ago! lol

Have a couple small triangular braces to put in, clean this up, brace the pcs (it really looks worse than it is), slap a pc of sheet metal over this cancer and go to another item on my list so I can wheel this at Moab and put another thousand on it the next week cruising around with my wife down that way.

 

[Madgyver]

You got a lot going on there....

 

[nvrstuk]

Mad--- you said it! lol

Sitting around at lunch today my wife and I both agreed that the next tear-down starts in Nov or Dec...

 

[Hinmaton]

My A pillars are similar, but I’m still pretending they aren’t.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nvrstuk]

Hinmaton--- That's too funny... I think most of us have been in denial for a looooong time! I'm going to drill a hole in the bottom of the other pillar so at least the water can run out or evaporate.

 

[nvrstuk]

Door pillar is patched, all tubing work is done, ps box actually fits (very tight), now to see if I can route hoses where I need them to go... going to be eveb tighter than I had thought. Going to order a few more fittings to see if I can snake them around... dang...

 

[nvrstuk]

New title for my build thread...
BIG STROKERS EAT PARTS

 

[EricLar80]

How did you find that issue? Just happened to have it apart and see it? Looks like it cracked in the heat affected zone of the weld.

 

[nvrstuk]

I was making GREAT time this morning till I was removing/rerouting a 1/2" tranny cooler line..
As many of us do I am continually looking for anything unusual or out of place. Always checking ujoints, etc... well, looking at the flexplate as I was laying underneath there was a black line next to a converter stud. Grabbed an awl and "click"..
dang!
Only 2 I can see are both cracked.

Well, guess that means I have about 1 1/2-2 days more work to squeeze in... leave date for the Safari is 2 weeks away from yesterday for us...

2 SFI rated ones overnight from Summit here on Monday.

 

[nvrstuk]

I am so lucky, so dang lucky this thing didn't grenade on my next shift or at 6K rpm.

If you've ever seen a flexplate grenade it will be in your mind forever. Wonder if I should get a blanket..


Surface speed per minute of a pc of ring gear has got to be close to a bullet at 6K rpm..
and heavier.

 

[Yeller]

I am so lucky, so dang lucky this thing didn't grenade on my next shift or at 6K rpm.

If you've ever seen a flexplate grenade it will be in your mind forever. Wonder if I should get a blanket..


Surface speed per minute of a pc of ring gear has got to be close to a bullet at 6K rpm..
and heavier.

Like a buzz saw

 

[nvrstuk]

What-cha think of my luck Steve??

Better now than later... I was cruising this am... I actually told my wife how good it was going then... well, you know the rest of the story.

Ordered 2 different SFI approved flex plates, overnight from Summit- be here Monday am.


Question- in my head I figured the FPS (feet per second) that the teeth on the ring gear are travelling. Roughly 4,000 fps at 6K rpm. No wonder those flexplate fragments are flying out of there faster than 90% of the rifles we plunk or hunt with...

 

[nvrstuk]

Well, I owe my wife a lot tonight. She climbed up on to my 3/4" thick x 36" dia steel work/fab bench to hold it down as I was heating and bending my two pitman arms which were clamped securely to the table so I could dial in the angle & height I need them. I was lifting the table with her on it and she wasn't exactly excited about it. My old rose bud tip popped a couple times - - she doesn't like heights and she was a trooper. lol

All turned out well. Pitman arms are cooling slowly in my wood stove sand.

 

[nvrstuk]

Believe it or not I've been working on it for 12-14hr/day and there isn't much to show for it...

I had 2 new SFI flexplates overnighted and neither of them "fit" so I get to drill the holes out appr. .004" each (hope that's enough)

Got a friend (ex student) that built a "step-drill" to center the bit and hopefully it will center the holes perfectly and open them up enough to make sure that all 4 TC studs are contacting the edge of holes exactly the same time. I have no idea why my old flex plate grenaded but one of these pics shows a chunk of flexplate stuck to the TC. I had to use a punch and hammer to knock it off. TC looks great thank goodness.