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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,
- Thread starter nvrstuk
- Start date
OP
OP
I need the bolt on the top left!
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OP
OP
Making progress.
Another run on the 6r80 adapters.
Buttoned up the 6r80 tonight. New pump, couple critical seals. Bridge seal and then the common body case seal. Installed a new Dorman lead frame back in 2021. Ford ones are non-existant. New filter and gasket (even though gaskets are re-useable).
Changing the routing of my shifter cable and it's not where I want it but I can make it work. It's closer than I'd like to the double carden and it still comes in from underneath. Skid plate fixes potential damage from wheeling but if I have time next week I'll look into re-routing the cable (again).
I got carried away with the video and it's too long. I don't know how to make it two 20 sec videos - only one short 20 sec video and still save the original. lol
I'll keep trying.
Another run on the 6r80 adapters.
Buttoned up the 6r80 tonight. New pump, couple critical seals. Bridge seal and then the common body case seal. Installed a new Dorman lead frame back in 2021. Ford ones are non-existant. New filter and gasket (even though gaskets are re-useable).
Changing the routing of my shifter cable and it's not where I want it but I can make it work. It's closer than I'd like to the double carden and it still comes in from underneath. Skid plate fixes potential damage from wheeling but if I have time next week I'll look into re-routing the cable (again).
I got carried away with the video and it's too long. I don't know how to make it two 20 sec videos - only one short 20 sec video and still save the original. lol
I'll keep trying.
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OP
OP
Lot's of life happening the past couple weeks but I got a chance to go get my freshly honed block from the machine shop which is now at .0025" skirt to cyl wall clearance as per Mahle specs.
Crank & one piston is in to measure deck ht since the shop had to take a few thousandths off.
Trying to keep quench #'s as good as possible realizing the short skirted stroker pistons rock in the bore a lot more than pistons with longer skirts so my goal is around .040".
Collapsed used Felpro head gasket is appr.049".
Accurate flat of piston to deck height is .009" inside the cylinder (measured directly above the wrist pin to reduce the chance of piston rock affecting the measurement so to achieve. 040" quench I'd need a .031" collapsed gasket.
Will have to run the numbers on Diamond ratings calculator as it figures everything into account. Piston not hitting the head is a lot more important than a qtr point of CR!
Already running 92 octane and really don't want to have to add any boost at each fill up as fillups are expensive enough since our governor put a 20% tax on gas so we are averaging 4.59/gal a d the rest of the US is supposedly at $3.49/gal. Almost 80 gal a month average for me from Feb to Nov so who wants to stuff more money in the gas tank? Not me!
Crank & one piston is in to measure deck ht since the shop had to take a few thousandths off.
Trying to keep quench #'s as good as possible realizing the short skirted stroker pistons rock in the bore a lot more than pistons with longer skirts so my goal is around .040".
Collapsed used Felpro head gasket is appr.049".
Accurate flat of piston to deck height is .009" inside the cylinder (measured directly above the wrist pin to reduce the chance of piston rock affecting the measurement so to achieve. 040" quench I'd need a .031" collapsed gasket.
Will have to run the numbers on Diamond ratings calculator as it figures everything into account. Piston not hitting the head is a lot more important than a qtr point of CR!
Already running 92 octane and really don't want to have to add any boost at each fill up as fillups are expensive enough since our governor put a 20% tax on gas so we are averaging 4.59/gal a d the rest of the US is supposedly at $3.49/gal. Almost 80 gal a month average for me from Feb to Nov so who wants to stuff more money in the gas tank? Not me!
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Modified the bellhousing. Uses all of the blocks bolts holes and dowel pins, starter bolts to trans like normal now.
OP
OP
36Fan said: 2 posts Quote: "I think the adapters are the cause of your flexplates breaking, not the hp of the motor. I'm done with adapters, straight to the block like factory now with all the original bolt holes and starter mounts.
Modified the bellhousing. Uses all of the blocks bolts holes and dowel pins, starter bolts to trans like normal now."
I remember you saying you were going to do this now... totally forgot.
Not sure if welding mounts on a bellhousing and using those bolt holes is any more accurate than using the dowel pins which I've used on the Windsor engine and 6r trans so the location is aligned perfectly with the adapter. Same dowel pin holes on both. The remaining bolts and holes clamp the bellhousing to the block like factory. Dowel pins are what align the two together.
I would like to not have to use an adapter just for the hassle of the converter and hole for the starter which you don't have an issue with - - which is slick.
Modified the bellhousing. Uses all of the blocks bolts holes and dowel pins, starter bolts to trans like normal now."
I remember you saying you were going to do this now... totally forgot.
Not sure if welding mounts on a bellhousing and using those bolt holes is any more accurate than using the dowel pins which I've used on the Windsor engine and 6r trans so the location is aligned perfectly with the adapter. Same dowel pin holes on both. The remaining bolts and holes clamp the bellhousing to the block like factory. Dowel pins are what align the two together.
I would like to not have to use an adapter just for the hassle of the converter and hole for the starter which you don't have an issue with - - which is slick.
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OP
OP
What's with Mahle supplying rings that need .017" ground off each and every one?
Spent most of the day grinding rings and they are all to Mahle spec now.
The rings I took out that Ford Performance installed were ground down over .011" more than spec'd by Mahle- this is also allowing for the overboring that Ford Perforance performed.
So- ring gaps of over .031". I'm becoming a little biased by the total disregard of general engine building skills/techniques/fitment and just plain CARING about they sell with their name on it. From responses I've received from others this seems to be the status quo from them.
Moving on- excited to at least be making progress. Trying to find head gaskets now...
Need a 4.157dia. or close anyway. Don't want a typical Felpro9333 since the gasket is 4.1"
Spent most of the day grinding rings and they are all to Mahle spec now.
The rings I took out that Ford Performance installed were ground down over .011" more than spec'd by Mahle- this is also allowing for the overboring that Ford Perforance performed.
So- ring gaps of over .031". I'm becoming a little biased by the total disregard of general engine building skills/techniques/fitment and just plain CARING about they sell with their name on it. From responses I've received from others this seems to be the status quo from them.
Moving on- excited to at least be making progress. Trying to find head gaskets now...
Need a 4.157dia. or close anyway. Don't want a typical Felpro9333 since the gasket is 4.1"
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- Joined
- Jun 1, 2007
- Messages
- 363
Do you have any dislike for Ford Performance camshafts? I’m planning to buy one as soon as it becomes available.
I may buy a set of Ford Performance heads as well.
I may buy a set of Ford Performance heads as well.
I wanted as much clamping force as possible, ditching the adapter plates and modifying the bellhousing was the way to do so. These 6r80's are in my desert trucks and they get beat on pretty hard. The .630 to.500 dowel pins line things up perfectly. Its definitely some work and tig welding that cast can be a pain but its worth it in the end.
OP
OP
I have never used a FP cam.
I run Z460 FP heads. They came on this engine-never bought one for myself before-never will again!
I have always used AFR or Trick Flow when spec'ing or building strokers. If I had the choice, I would have TW225's on my 460. I need a lot of air and high velocity at low rpm.
I run Z460 FP heads. They came on this engine-never bought one for myself before-never will again!
I have always used AFR or Trick Flow when spec'ing or building strokers. If I had the choice, I would have TW225's on my 460. I need a lot of air and high velocity at low rpm.
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2007
- Messages
- 363
For SBF I agree. Unfortunately, not a lot of options for the Godzilla yet.
OP
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They'll be out there soon-just $$$$$$$$.
OP
OP
Got 3 hrs today! Yay!
Shift lever geometry skills test. lol
I moved the output cable of my Winters about 4" towards the DS and it created so much trouble trying to route it away from the dbl carden joint, angle coming under the t-case was pretty much un-workable w/o some long extension of a skid plate to help protect the cable that was looping from above.
Time to mock it up since more stroker parts come tomorrow
1st pic shows how most aftermarket shifter arms are oriented. Cable comes in from the back slightly below the lip of the pan. On the 6r this can cause interference with the driveshaft. Not on my narrowed D60 but on many D44's. This eliminates that potential issue.
Shift lever geometry skills test. lol
I moved the output cable of my Winters about 4" towards the DS and it created so much trouble trying to route it away from the dbl carden joint, angle coming under the t-case was pretty much un-workable w/o some long extension of a skid plate to help protect the cable that was looping from above.
Time to mock it up since more stroker parts come tomorrow
1st pic shows how most aftermarket shifter arms are oriented. Cable comes in from the back slightly below the lip of the pan. On the 6r this can cause interference with the driveshaft. Not on my narrowed D60 but on many D44's. This eliminates that potential issue.
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Brian, at some point you need to just leave shit alone and just drive the damn thing! (Says the guy who is almost as bad as you when it comes to not leaving shit alone and just driving the damn thing!)
OP
OP
No denying ya there buddy!! I thought to myself I am foolish if I don't "fix" my shifter cable woes when I have another F150 6R tranny sitting on the bench and I can't assemble my block anymore (still talking myself into it).
Seems to work great. Within a couple degrees of what all the aftermarket shift cable geometry is so I won't know till after I finish building the engine, starting it up and trying it out.
Couple more vid's of the why the bracket shape, location, etc on the way.
Seems to work great. Within a couple degrees of what all the aftermarket shift cable geometry is so I won't know till after I finish building the engine, starting it up and trying it out.
Couple more vid's of the why the bracket shape, location, etc on the way.
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