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yeah......what theyk said ;D

could be a cable that supplies juice to the starter is either loose, partially broken, or corroded inside. or, the bushings in the ends of the starter are worn out, and when it got warmed up it would not make contact internally anymore. Maybe when you were messin around with it before you...

I have 32 x 11.50 AT's on my truck right now, and the only complaint I have is that the little rocks that are in the mud get into the voids in the tires, and when getting back on the highway they fly off and do a number on the paint on the front of my rear cutout flares. I also had to glue some...

I had rims off a 79 bronc (the wagon wheel looking ones) with 30 x 9.50 mud terrains and a 2 inch body lift. I dont think the body lift was necessary, but it looked much better after I did it. Bear in mind this was over 10 years ago, and the MT's have had a couple of design changes. hope this...

does he have steel shims? if so, make sure they have a lip or pin to keep them aligned. I have heard of them working themselves out. good luck.

I agree with the statement about e-bay being a garage sale of questionable goods. I've been burned too. Sorry for your loss.

I bought a new steed and it had dual shocks on the front and rear. I couldn't remember my last two broncs riding so rough, and a local bronc owner said pull one set off all the way around. After kicking myself repeatedly, I did just that, and WOW :o what a difference! I have since read that...

yes, you are exactly right about the MAF being more friendly to modification, because it calculates it's own needs constantly (within preset limits, which can screw you up), whereas the SD is indeed a set map and has a much smaller window of operation. good observation! :)

if you can shift it to neutral and the vibration goes away, that is VERY little off. If he's sold you on that, the I would go with shims as little as you are talking about. be sure to use steel shims though. I've seen those cheap cast aluminum jobs get pounded into dust in a weekend. just my...

MAF, SD, it doesn't matter. You need to remember that usuallly you are comparing an engine that came from a passenger (gramma) car and a sports car. cars that are supposed to drive different. the certainly weigh different. I understand that you could get either system in the mustang...

hackyrat had a good point. i have worked as an industrial mechanic, and we used to replace pulleys on gearboxes all the time because of concave surfaces on the sheaves of the pulleys. don't overlook it.

I live in Lubbock, TX, and if you stand on a soap box, you can just about see the west coast(LOL). Man is it flat here, I have to drive at least 2 hours to work out the steed, and about 8 hours to get to some real action(Las Cruces, NM).

you are looking for the most bang for the buck, or simply the best period? Look at the # of fins per inch and the width and number of the cooling tubes. If it's copper/brass then take this for gospel that this your cooling area. Then if it is aluminum divide the number they give by about...

good job, i'd always heard that there was something at the end of the rainbow!

never done this on a bronco, but did it on a p/u once that needed a 1/2 inch fuel line. It was carbuerated though. we ran an aluminum fuel line from end to end, and at the ends we installed 1,2 inch fittings, double flared, and installed brass barb fittings. We the connected fuel tank with...

just an observation. If they are so great and so inexpensive(talking long run), why does'nt everything have a locked differential? you better sail under a lucky star or lay two black marks around every corner. spools are a poor mans posi. if you want to save the $30 for the spool, pop the...

if thats just resin and chop thats rolled in there, and there is rust that you can see, then you can bet water can see it as well. I would not want to trust my noggin to a cage bolted to rusty tub that is just going to get worse. sorry, just my 2 cents.

flush the system with dot 4 brake fluid and then fill with dot 4. this has a higher boiling point than dot 3. also go with the shield, every bit of insurance is worth it. don't let anyone talk you into dot 5 brake fluid though. this stuff doesn't boil till 600 deg. or so, but it is silicone...

check out the fuse rating for the window motors first, then look at the kind of power that goes through those spring loaded contacts. my tahoe has rear window defrost and a lock solenoid, and it has a stack of 4 contacts on either side. You might try to find out how much continuous power they...

it could still be your brakes. but it could also be steering linkage, tire inflation, or a bent axle tube (too much camber on one side). I'd hate to spend the money on new parts when I wasn't positive that everything I had was working correctly to begin with.