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Sorry man, no useful pictures yet. But the ones a few posts back look pretty good. I am not replacing my door post because they are in pretty good shape. But as I have the pass. sides completely tore down, its exposed enough for me to test fit the new piece. Wish I would have taken a...

I wish my rebuild looked like that... I like that color..

I started my '77 in august 2003. Decided to perform a full body off restoration after much debate. I should have had her finished by now but I have to admit I keep changing my mind about what the final should look like. For the most part, all suspension and chassis is complete. Now is time...

I just picked up 2 new kick panes from JBG. After getting the old ones out (what was left of them), I test fitted the new kick panel on the drivers side. It was hell getting it in there but for the most part if fit pretty well. I have not welded it in yet as I'm working on the body support as...

I've had my eye on the painless one for quite a while. Only because the fuse box looked a little more sturdy. But then again, I have not seen it up close.

Drive shaft angle comes to mind. My '77 is at 3.5 and the 3rd membr is at a pretty stiff angle. It's passable now but any higher and I would have a problem. Also any brake lines/cables could potentially be affected.

On my ranger I measured Driver 9 x 16 (Thats kick panel to bolt and seat pan to bolt) Pass 9 x 31 1/2 (Kick panel to bolt and seat pan to bolt) Another option is to crawl under and measure from the bolt the inner rocker where the pan meets up. That should get you close. ;D

I agree, break out the welder and fab one. Save you a couple of pennies. ;D

You could also try a product (chemical) called Ospho. I think its actuall called osphorous but I call it Ospho. I tried this stuff on some of my rust spots and it eats it up pretty well. I use it and let it dry then do some general scraping. The label says its paintable but I usualy try and...

A hammer and some patience did the trick for me.. ;D

I agree - no use in taking chances. I tried to salvage my original set up but there was just too much "what if" work with it. I decided to go with stone crusher. Can't complain about the decision... http://classicbroncos.com/stone_crusher_steering.shtml

Looks like it was issue #10.. which I am sad to say I don't have. But it looks like you can indeed get them in PDF format (subscription req.). There are also a couple of diagrams at this link: http://www.broncograveyard.com/6diagrams.html I spent a day rebuilding the one on my '77 and I only...

I bought a set of Ford shop manuals. They have helped numerous times... Rebuilding the Tcase, rebuilding the steering box, wiring etc... However, there have been times they were vague..

When you say it will not go in or out of gear, is it currently in gear and you can't get it out? Or is it in netural? What about the TCase? Is it in netural? 2H? ... Could be something did not match up properly when it went back together. When I rebuilt mine, i was able to turn the rear...

I've never done one but I would think that you would at least need to remove all the body mount bolts before you start. In other words, probably can't get away doing one at a time? The two in the front and rear should be the easiest access wise. Its the ones in the middle that are going to be...

Hey - arn't those t-cases fun. It took me all weekend to do mine. The front output shaft took the cake. I could not figure out how to pull through with the bearing on the front and back. Turns out the front bearing just slides off. Or at least it did this time. I did discover one very...

I often wondered about that? But I guess it really makes no difference. The factory putty on the ones I have seen seem like they were painted over anyway.

I bought a pair but have not used them yet. They do seem much heavier than the conventional ones. In all I think they are worth the price. Just my .00002 cents.

Nope - not doing exact replica sort of restoration. In fact I was just going to try it on my trail rig. I got lots of body work to do and was thinking of trying it out. I'm pretty good with my MIG but I was curious about trying other things. I found a single sided spot welder / stitch...

Anyone have any experience using a spot welder? I was looking at the handheld model that has the smaller tongs. Seems really efficeint. Of course you would not be able to spot weld all locations. But would cover about 50% perhaps? %)